Flint niping
#2
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: River Ridge, LA (Suburb of New Orleans)
Posts: 10,917
Here's a start. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XgMslaTuOQo
Are you using natural flint or cut agate? You should be getting a lot more shots than that out of a flint.
Are you using natural flint or cut agate? You should be getting a lot more shots than that out of a flint.
#4
I must have 75 - 100 shots out of my current flint and it is still working fine. You must be doing something wrong to only be getting that many shots. Is your flint adjusted correctly? It should be about 1/16" away from the frizzen at 1/2 c0ck.
Is your frizzen loose enough? Does it fly open when the flint hits it?
Are you changing you flint because you are not getting spark? Do you put gun oil on the face of the frizzen? If so, do you wipe it off with alcohol or other degreaser prior to shooting? I prefer to never put any type of oil on my frizzen and a tiny bit of gun grease on where the pivot point and spring meet.
Is your frizzen loose enough? Does it fly open when the flint hits it?
Are you changing you flint because you are not getting spark? Do you put gun oil on the face of the frizzen? If so, do you wipe it off with alcohol or other degreaser prior to shooting? I prefer to never put any type of oil on my frizzen and a tiny bit of gun grease on where the pivot point and spring meet.
#5
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Southeast Pa.
Posts: 20
I must have 75 - 100 shots out of my current flint and it is still working fine. You must be doing something wrong to only be getting that many shots. Is your flint adjusted correctly? It should be about 1/16" away from the frizzen at 1/2 c0ck.
Is your frizzen loose enough? Does it fly open when the flint hits it?
Are you changing you flint because you are not getting spark? Do you put gun oil on the face of the frizzen? If so, do you wipe it off with alcohol or other degreaser prior to shooting? I prefer to never put any type of oil on my frizzen and a tiny bit of gun grease on where the pivot point and spring meet.
Is your frizzen loose enough? Does it fly open when the flint hits it?
Are you changing you flint because you are not getting spark? Do you put gun oil on the face of the frizzen? If so, do you wipe it off with alcohol or other degreaser prior to shooting? I prefer to never put any type of oil on my frizzen and a tiny bit of gun grease on where the pivot point and spring meet.
#6
Well Gray, the solvent probably has some petroleum base in it and could lead to reduced sparking. Wipe that sucker squeeky clean before you strike it.
As for the frizzen being loose, it should flop open but if you flint is adjusted properly it should open completely as you said it does. Also if your flint isn't square to the frizzen it probably will chip a little but after a few firings it shoud square itself up (self knapping if you will),
As for the frizzen being loose, it should flop open but if you flint is adjusted properly it should open completely as you said it does. Also if your flint isn't square to the frizzen it probably will chip a little but after a few firings it shoud square itself up (self knapping if you will),
#7
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Southeast Pa.
Posts: 20
Well Gray, the solvent probably has some petroleum base in it and could lead to reduced sparking. Wipe that sucker squeeky clean before you strike it.
As for the frizzen being loose, it should flop open but if you flint is adjusted properly it should open completely as you said it does. Also if your flint isn't square to the frizzen it probably will chip a little but after a few firings it shoud square itself up (self knapping if you will),
As for the frizzen being loose, it should flop open but if you flint is adjusted properly it should open completely as you said it does. Also if your flint isn't square to the frizzen it probably will chip a little but after a few firings it shoud square itself up (self knapping if you will),
Also will be taking it out and shooting some this spring to make sure things are right for next season. Had three miss fires this season. I could belive the deer stood there for three tryes. It did go off on the 4th time but i missed> I guess due to all the excitment...O WELL
#8
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,425
Gray...Here is how I knapp mine...Take a finishing nail about 3 inches long and cut or file the point off...I have a small brass hammer with a screw driver built on it for adjusting the frizzen...I put the hammer at half ****, hold the nail at a 90 degree angle to the edge of the frizzen and hit straight down with that little brass hammer...I move along the flint until it's sharp...I only knapp off a 1/32 or so of the flint and probably move the nail 5-6 times along the flint...
Also...After several shots when you get less sparks, flip the flint over and shoot, it will knapp itself...
Also...After several shots when you get less sparks, flip the flint over and shoot, it will knapp itself...
#9
Before you hunt... take some isopropyl alcohol and swab the bore of the rifle. Then a couple of dry patches follow. Next, take that same patch that has the alcohol on it, wipe the nose of the flint off, the frizzen and the pan out. Let it sit a little and it will dry itself. Now after you load the rifle, put your powder in the pan. The idea is you want no oil what so ever on the flint or the frizzen.
When I nap a flint I do the same as NCHawkeye except I use a 6 penny nail. First I grind the nail flat. My wheel grinder does that. Then I like to cut a L into the end of it. What I mean is grind off about half that nose so there is a small lip on that nail.
If you are napping, be sure the rifle is not loaded, and the pan is empty. Or put a cloth in the EMPTY pan to make sure should a spark be produced, it does not fall in or near the touch hole.
Then set the rifle in half c0ck. Then at about 90º put the lip of that nail on the edge of the flint and then tap it lightly with my brass hammer. Sometimes it does not look like anything comes off, but you'd be surprised if you rub your finger over that. Work the entire edge. Now you have a napped flint.
Some people shoot ten or more times and then flip the flint so it naps itself. I tried that but it does not always work. When you set your flint in the jaws of the lock.. at half c0ck there should be about 1/16th of a gap maybe a little more, before that flint hits the frizzen.
Normally on a Thomas Fuller black English flint I get around 40-50 shots. I use leather to hold my flint in the jaws. Some people use a flattened lead ball.
When I nap a flint I do the same as NCHawkeye except I use a 6 penny nail. First I grind the nail flat. My wheel grinder does that. Then I like to cut a L into the end of it. What I mean is grind off about half that nose so there is a small lip on that nail.
If you are napping, be sure the rifle is not loaded, and the pan is empty. Or put a cloth in the EMPTY pan to make sure should a spark be produced, it does not fall in or near the touch hole.
Then set the rifle in half c0ck. Then at about 90º put the lip of that nail on the edge of the flint and then tap it lightly with my brass hammer. Sometimes it does not look like anything comes off, but you'd be surprised if you rub your finger over that. Work the entire edge. Now you have a napped flint.
Some people shoot ten or more times and then flip the flint so it naps itself. I tried that but it does not always work. When you set your flint in the jaws of the lock.. at half c0ck there should be about 1/16th of a gap maybe a little more, before that flint hits the frizzen.
Normally on a Thomas Fuller black English flint I get around 40-50 shots. I use leather to hold my flint in the jaws. Some people use a flattened lead ball.