Got the GPR all stained!
01-19-2011, 10:57 AM
#21
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 2,037
As a full time cabinetmaker, I would like to add that an alchohol stain's main positive attribute is its clarity. Some of the other stains cloud the look of the wood while they color it. As far as controling color, alchohol based stains can be a bugger to use on large surfaces, like a desk top, but on small items like a gunstock the fast drying is not a problem. Sometimes an alchohol based stain can raise the grain of the wood so a light sanding might be necessary before topcoating.
01-19-2011, 06:35 PM
#22
Spike
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Linn Creek, Mo
Posts: 55
As a full time cabinetmaker, I would like to add that an alchohol stain's main positive attribute is its clarity. Some of the other stains cloud the look of the wood while they color it. As far as controling color, alchohol based stains can be a bugger to use on large surfaces, like a desk top, but on small items like a gunstock the fast drying is not a problem. Sometimes an alchohol based stain can raise the grain of the wood so a light sanding might be necessary before topcoating.
alcohol stains penetrate the wood and are easier to control the color depth VS oil stains. All our local stores carry nothing but oil stain so BC or something else online has to be ordered when ever i restore a stock. So basically if you can find an Alcohol based stain, that will do the job.
01-23-2011, 06:12 AM
#25
Spike
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Linn Creek, Mo
Posts: 55
So what can I expect from a water base stain? What would I gain from a alchohol base stain? I want my Hawkens to look the best I can make it. It may not be worth a whole lot since it is a CVA, but I want it to look the best I can make it so I can hang it on the wall.
01-23-2011, 06:18 AM
#26
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 2,037
There is no reason why you can't do a great job with the stain provided in the kit. What I like to do, when using a water based stain, is raise the grain of the wood before staining, the whiskers will stand up, then sand everything smooth again, do your staining and lightly sand with some 320 grit sandpaper. I mean lightly so you do not affect your staining job. Then finish as usual.
Personally, I am not nutz about water based stains and finishes but you can still do a nice job with them.
Personally, I am not nutz about water based stains and finishes but you can still do a nice job with them.
01-23-2011, 11:21 AM
#27
Banned
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Boncarbo,Colorado
Posts: 9,186
When the whiskers stand up, run the back of your hand down the stock and then up the stock, when you feel the whiskers bite your skin, thats the direction you need to go and only that way.
I dont mix water in with the BC stain, use it straight, just remember that when you add the clear finish, it will darken it a bit.
I dont mix water in with the BC stain, use it straight, just remember that when you add the clear finish, it will darken it a bit.
01-23-2011, 02:47 PM
#28
Fork Horn
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location:
Posts: 313
Aniline dyes will let the wood shine through much more so than Minwax or Birchwood Casey.
You can buy the powdered dyes and blend your own custom colors:
http://www.homesteadfinishingproduct...nsFastdyes.htm
You need to de-whisker before staining.
YMMV
You can buy the powdered dyes and blend your own custom colors:
http://www.homesteadfinishingproduct...nsFastdyes.htm
You need to de-whisker before staining.
YMMV
