mnprohunter

Cay,
Typically I brush the barrel, clean it with a similar product they suggest, dry patch it, then patch it with oil, usually remington remoil. However, I have been told on here to use either bore butter or Montana extreme, which I will try. I have never had a rust problem ever with any gun of mine from a .22 to a muzzleloader to my shotguns, I am very picky. So, Ill try coating them with above said products and be even pickier.
Now, the first question was answered, however, I feld the weathershield int/ext was a good question. What good is keepin the outside good if the inside sucks?
Anyway, I think the issue will all be ok, just have to try a few things until I get it right...I just kinda expected a better response.

Urban_Redneck

The inside doesn't "suck", it's just plain steel. It requires thoughtful care, that's the owner's responsibility. What you expected of T/C is a mystery to me Ford won't send you a new bumper if you back into a telephone pole.

The powders we shoot are filthy and plastic residue from sabots can trap moisture loving fouling between it and the bore. You may want to take a second look at your cleaning products, methods, and storage conditions. Ammonia based BP solvents don't do much for plastic fouling and can be corrosive if left in the bore.

I'm not sure how bad your bore is rusted but here is what I'd do:

Dismount the barrel and brush the bore with Kroil run 6 dry patches and repeat cleaning the brush with solvent or carb cleaner between scrubbings .

Take a bore mop or patches on a loop and liberally coat the bore with Kroil again. Leave overnight or longer re-coating with Kroil every 12 hours or less. Scrub and dry patch again.

Apply JB bore compound as directed changing patches every 15 down and back cycles. Repeat 6 times.

Clean the bore with Hoppes or similar nitro solvent and run dry patches until they exit clean.

At this point you can run a lightly oiled patch and be done or perhaps look into a product like Ultra Bore Coat which will make subsequent cleaning easier.

Good Luck,

Jim

mnprohunter

Jim,
Maybe suck isn't the right word, but heres the deal: I didn't want a new barrel, just some kind of extra feedback. In any other muzzleloader I have owned I have shot the same powder, same sabot, same primer, and cleaned them all the same and never with an issue. So...whats the deal then????? you tell me...am I stupid as some seem to be implying? NO. So please don't imply I was beggin for a new bumper or barrel in this case or that I can't clean a gun. I caught this issue early and the barrel is clean and void of rust, had I not caught it early I may have had a mess.
I appreciate everyones constructive feedback on things that work for them on these issues so thanks for that.

SteveBNy

Still not close - they said to use #17 - which does work well -followed by dry patches and a standard gun oil. No mention of TC cleaning patches, or borebutter or powerbelts (oops - thats another manufacturer who recomends THEIR products).

Urban_Redneck

Well if there's rust then something was not properly attended to....

You didn't mention what sort of rust you had. Was it a uniform coat .i.e. darkening or was it a few "spots"?

If it was uniform, you need to look at the way you clean and store the rifle.

If it was "spots" or streaks it may be plastic fouling giving rust a place to hide. You can try choke tube cleaner or acetone *** take the barrel off the stocks these products melt plastic***

I gave my Triumph the JB Bore Compound treatment and it makes cleaning and loading easier. I also have been shooting BH209 exclusively, which produces less fouling and cleans up with Hoppes, Break Free, or any other nitro solvent.

When my rifle has gone from cold woods to warm house, I unload it, let warm to room temp and clean it. This is the same regimen I use with all my guns from my 100 year old shotgun to my stainless bbl'd 10/22 and I never have any rust issues.

Remember "Rust never sleeps"

YMMV

MountainDevil54

personally i'd get some 0000 steel wool and apply Flitz polishing compound and scrub that bore clean. Dry patch it until its clean, then run soft cloth patches with more Flitz. It will protect for up to 6 months against rust.

i use it on my accura and all the other rifles i have and not one lick of trouble yet.

liquidorange

the weather shield is probably just an exterior rust coating. ive only herd of one or 2 very expensive products that claim to protect the bore of a gun. i wouldnt trust any coating. get some shooters choice FP-10 or some sheath or rem oil. i coat the heck out of any bare metal. a couple alcohol swabs and 4 or 5 caps with patchs will dry the barrel out for hunting. thompson center without a doubt is one of the best customer service around period! now that there owned by smith and wesson doesnt make any difference. as a matter of fact smith and wesson just sent me a new screw part for one of my guns no questions asked. they are a little harder to get on the phone i will say but if you call during the week after hunting season you should be able to get someone on the phone.

hometheaterman

I thought stainless steel didn't rust? I've never had issues with any rust showing up on anything I've had stainless steel where I have had rust issues with some steel stuff. However, maybe I'm just lucky. I'm not sure if it would rust if I left it dirty over time or not.

cherokee75

Man, I feel lazy compared to how some of you clean your MLs. I have an Omega in stainless and I use the TC #13 bore cleaner and a brass brush and coat it with bore butter afterward. Never had a problem with rust or accuracy.