opinions on value
#2

Are you buying or selling? If your selling you know what you paid for it and what kind of condition it's in, so go from there. If your selling to buy another, how bad do you want to sell? are you selling to a Friend, Relative or a unknown? A Friend or Relative uusually gets a better deal, a unknown will be even tougher as they know you want to sell and will try for the best price possible.
Anytime you sell, you should never expect to get what you want, you will lose and you should consider this as if you lose too much it may be worth while to keep it and add it to your collection.
If your selling to up-grade and need the cash, you usually will get 1/3 to 1/2 of what you paid and that's it.
A used ML is only worth as much as someone is willing to pay for it.
Good Luck to you!
(BP)
Anytime you sell, you should never expect to get what you want, you will lose and you should consider this as if you lose too much it may be worth while to keep it and add it to your collection.
If your selling to up-grade and need the cash, you usually will get 1/3 to 1/2 of what you paid and that's it.
A used ML is only worth as much as someone is willing to pay for it.
Good Luck to you!
(BP)
#3
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Yucca Valley,Ca
Posts: 2,496

Are you buying or selling? If your selling you know what you paid for it and what kind of condition it's in, so go from there. If your selling to buy another, how bad do you want to sell? are you selling to a Friend, Relative or a unknown? A Friend or Relative uusually gets a better deal, a unknown will be even tougher as they know you want to sell and will try for the best price possible.
Anytime you sell, you should never expect to get what you want, you will lose and you should consider this as if you lose too much it may be worth while to keep it and add it to your collection.
If your selling to up-grade and need the cash, you usually will get 1/3 to 1/2 of what you paid and that's it.
A used ML is only worth as much as someone is willing to pay for it.
Good Luck to you!
(BP)
Anytime you sell, you should never expect to get what you want, you will lose and you should consider this as if you lose too much it may be worth while to keep it and add it to your collection.
If your selling to up-grade and need the cash, you usually will get 1/3 to 1/2 of what you paid and that's it.
A used ML is only worth as much as someone is willing to pay for it.
Good Luck to you!
(BP)
#4
Typical Buck
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Mesa, Arizona
Posts: 986

The problem with the Omega for sale is that they are pretty much flooded on the market. The .45 cal is slightly less desirable but also in shorter supply so you might just luck out and find someone that really wants one. Unfortunately they get discounted by Walmart at the end of the seasons so the real price is much lower than retail. I paid almost $500 for my first Omega stainless which is worth a lot less now. I would expect I might get $250 for it; Maybe.
#5
Fork Horn
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location:
Posts: 313

My rule of thumb for current factory guns costing under $1000:
Percentage of lowest local price for a new gun.
Test fired only- (as new with box papers etc)- 85%
Excellent- No pitting or buggered screws. Spotless bore, no "handling" marks or dings, etc. 75%
Very good- No pitting or buggered screws. Light rub and or "handling" marks (no dings) indicating light or careful use, excellent bore. 65-70%
Good- Light pitting around breech or muzzle, minor blue or finish wear, small dings and light scratches on stock, bright bore, no buggered screws. 50-55%.
Unless the price is very low or the gun is very special, I avoid guns with buggered screws, because if bubba can't figure the right screwdriver to use- he probably didn't know what he was doing once he got inside.
Thus a rifle in very good condition, that's available locally for $399 l would look to pay no more than $275
Just my $0.02
Percentage of lowest local price for a new gun.
Test fired only- (as new with box papers etc)- 85%
Excellent- No pitting or buggered screws. Spotless bore, no "handling" marks or dings, etc. 75%
Very good- No pitting or buggered screws. Light rub and or "handling" marks (no dings) indicating light or careful use, excellent bore. 65-70%
Good- Light pitting around breech or muzzle, minor blue or finish wear, small dings and light scratches on stock, bright bore, no buggered screws. 50-55%.
Unless the price is very low or the gun is very special, I avoid guns with buggered screws, because if bubba can't figure the right screwdriver to use- he probably didn't know what he was doing once he got inside.
Thus a rifle in very good condition, that's available locally for $399 l would look to pay no more than $275
Just my $0.02