earnhard3

Need some help.

I have been playing with the LRH I bought. I have been shooting alot of guns at the range all are dead one except for the LRH.

I'm ghoing to Iowa with it so I need it on.

I need help with yor loads. I have several sabots, bullets, primers and powders. I have mixed and matched and found nothing with clover leafs or close to even a semi clover leaf.


whats your load for the lrh? please inlcude primer type, sabot, bullet and powder type. Thanks

thumper50

I don't hav a LRH, but my .50 Disc Elite will shoot 1 1/4" at 150meters with 250 shockwave, 90gr T7 3F. Gotta be close to the same rifle! good luck!

txhunter58

Quite a few good ideas here:

http://www.hpmuzzleloading.com/

I use BH 209 and the bare primer set up (I use Remington STS primers), but it will work with the plastic jacket as well. I have to use conicals and the Hornady FPBs shoot well for me at 90 gr of powder.

mountaineer magic

My best load for my LRH is 130gr triple 7, federal primer, and the Barnes 290 gr Spitfire TMZ, It also shoots the 250 gr Shockwave with standard black sabot and 130 gr triple 7. The shockwave will group at less then 2" at a 100 yards and the Barnes at a little over 2" The shockwave will group at about 3 1/2 inches at 200 yards. and the Barnes at about 4 -5. I actually prefer the barnes even though it doesn't group as good as the shockwave . You might want to check the barrel screws if the gun was taken apart to clean it. Sometimes they can be unevenly tightened and cause the accuracy to be hindered. Make sure to work the barrel into the c clamp good when assembling it. Good luck. You have one of the best guns out there.

klundin2000

I find using a higher power scope with an adjustable parallax to be very beneficial when working up an accurate load. Bought a 3 -9 hunting scope that was unusable on the range because the parallax was way way out of whack.

The crosshairs wandered about 4" at 100 yards with any head movement. I sent it back.

FYI Earnhard....it is the same scope you are using. Check the scope parallax. kl

earnhard3

was there a issue in sending it back?

klundin2000

I think I mentioned to you that I bought a Hi-Lux 3 to 9 scope about 1 1/2 years ago. That scopes parallax was spot on. In fact I liked it so much I bought another late September. It was about 2 weeks before I got around to mounting the scope and checking it out at the range. After my first range session...I knew we had a big big problem with the parallax. I contacted them immediately when I got back from the range. He told me to send it back, so a techncian could check it out. That was 1 1/2 weeks ago...still waiting for my scope. It cost me $8 bucks to ship it back.

I wrote a personal message to you on how to check to see if your scope parallax was set correctly...did you get a chance to check it out???

If not, basically this is what I wrote.

Checking a scopes parallax

Cradle you rifle or ML on your shooting bags...get your gun rock solid with the cross hairs on target. Once the crosshairs are solid on target...move your head slightly up and down and left to right. If your cross hairs move (or wander) around the target while you move your head...the parallax isn't set correctly at that distance. If the crosshairs moves or wanders a little no big deal. However, it is almost impossible to shoot bug holes if the parallax is off and the crosshairs wander 3" or more.

If your scope has an adjustable parallax....forget the preset marks on the scope rings....they are only a guide line. Get on target as before and do the parallax head bobbing thing. Keep adusting the scope ring until the cross hairs settle in and stop moving while you are doing the parallax head bob. Your parallax is set correctly when you can move your head side to side and up and down and the cross hairs stay rock solid.

Yesterday, I was at the range and the guy sitting next to me was shooting a custom 243 Ackley Improved with a 10-42 power Nightforce scope. (about $1600 for scope alone) Anyway...he asked if I wanted to look through his scope which I did. I couldn't help notice that (for me) the parallax was way out of whack. I asked him if the parallax was set correctly for him. He looked at me with a confused look on his face. Find out...it wasn't and once the parallax was set correctly for him his group sizes tighen up significantly.

earnhard3

I put the gun on a table looking out the window across the river to the bank. Best I could do since it was raining outside. I did this once it stopped for a bit.

I mo ved the head p and down, left and right. I wouldn't say the cross hairs jumped. But they moved. If I mo ved the head to the left 1" the cross hairs moved 1"...

did I do it right?

klundin2000

In order to do it right the cross hairs must be on a target or a small stone or whatever you are sighted in at. If your gun is stone still and the cross hairs are on the target, but move off target when you do the parallax head bob thing ...the parallax is out of adjustment at the distance.

In a nut shell it's very hard to shoot MOA groups when the cross hairs move off one way or the other with a little head movement. When the parallax is adjusted properly, you can move your head to the left,right,up, or down and the cross hairs stay exactly on the target. IMHO this is the first step one in shooting small groups, or at least tighter groups.

ML are harder then rifles to shoot tight groups because you have to remove them from the bags to load and swab the barrel or do whatever. So in addition to adjusting the scope parallax.... ML or rifles will shoot to a slightly different POI if the gun is supported differently everytime it is placed back on the bags. I don't use sand bags to support my guns. It's harder to get the gun positioned exactly the same everytime. I bought a saddle bag to support the forearm and a silica sand fill leather V to support the rear stock. I position the forearm in the saddle the same way everytime to a certain mark. Then use the rear V bag to get the right elevation.

Getting the gun positioned on the bags the same way everytime is step two.

You may think I'm getting a little anal here...but hand position and face pressure should also be consistent. Here's what I do to check both. Once my cross hairs are on target rock steady, I release all grip tension in my right hand and ever so slightly remove the pressure of my cheek against the stock. More often then not the cross hairs move off target. I reposition and repeat the process. Release hand tension and cheek pressure. If done right, the cross hairs stays on target. Many times we have a tendency to move the cross hairs around by pushing the cross hairs to the target with our cheek or using our right hand tension to tweak the cross hairs back on target. Does it make a difference? Yup.

Ok...one more step that I do. Once I have the above things taken care of and I'm starting the trigger pull, I pretend I'm slowly pulling the target directly back to the reticule. With this step, if done correctly it just feels right. How many times have you heard someone say...I pulled that one to the right or left. I know immediately if I had a good trigger pull.



Look at the lower left target. Four shots are through that hole on the left. With that lone flyer to the right, I knew where I hit before I even looked back at the target. I know these aren't benchrest groups but they are pretty good for a stock factory rifle.

I know you just asked about scope parallax but it's hard to talk about step one and not include the other range steps. I spent some time on range with Benchrest shooters and if you think I'm anal with my shooting method....spend some time with these guys. Wow

These tips don't mean a hill of bean in the hunting world, only in the rifle range world. Good Luck kl