i am still using HEET ,the ISO one by golden eagle TO CLEAN MY BORE AND GET RID OF WATER .

it also has CLEANER/LUBE in it.

company will not tell me whatcleaner/lube is, it is about 9% of the total in the HEET.

rest is alcohol.

i think it may be better to clean with than the WD-40 but not good to store.

i use it after hot wash with soap and after each shot at range.

sproulman

I just use regular windex with ammonia, a can of compressed air - or in my case a compressor and a couple dry patches.

If the bore is clean there really is not much for the moisture to cling to, the ammonia evaporates watervapor with it (not to mention that it cleans metal to metal) and the compressed air causes water and vaporto evaporate really fast. It really works well when the bore is warm.

Same at the range I just use a patch very lightly treated with windex - no dry patch necessary... then load and shoot again... repeat the process

i think i am getting a COMPRESSOR,i have so many uses for it.

never thought about blowing it out with compressor,this would help under the rod thimbles and sightsetc where water hides and causes rust too.

kids always want their tires and tubes blown up.

any suggestions on compressor to get?

i actually am mixing windex with the ISO heet now

Well maybe, I have compressors at two of my places and never use them for gun cleaning. I don't believe that blowing out a barrel with air will get the water out of the pores 100% I live in a very humid area and need to be sure the barrel is completely dry before I oil it. I use hot soap and water to clean corrosive powder residue and the use boiling water for a rinse the heat drys the barrel in a couple of minutes and it also opens the pores in the metal so that when I oil it the oil will go into the pores and stay put. I also believe that needs will change according to the area you live in and will sometimes be quite different in different areas, so people should not be surprised when they have to do a bit of trial and error to find out what is best for them I had to do some things different when I moved from northern IL to down wind of Greers Fairy Lake in AR. Was expensive learning to. Lee

Pamida (like a Wal Mart) had a sale on a 3 gal portable air compressor. They will run pneumaticroofing hammers, so they are of value to me. They had them for $100.00 each approximately.So, I bought two of them. One for the shop and one for the house. That way I did not have to carry the one back and fourth, or walk out to the shop. Really a good investment (and I am too lazy to walk out to the shop sometimes). They had a smaller one for $50.00 but it was junk. I bought that first and played with it... and it was garbage.

Check Harbor Freight for a good air compressor. They have them on sale there too.

will check wal-mart.

harbor freight just opened a store near me.

Lee

You might try it - think you might be surprised how well it works. I statred using the compressed air for drying whenI was in the Navy. I was one of the few responsible for radar antennas on the carrier and when we would do POMSEE on the motors - the first thing we would do was dry them with compressed air. The air traveling across the surface or even better yet in a bore creates a vortex that pulls water vapor from the metal. It even works better if the metal is warm, but even the air crossing the metal creates a little bit of friction heat that helps.

And that is the perfect time to run the air across the metal - water wants to evap anyway in and on a hot bore and with the movement of air and the vortec created by the movent of high speed air it will evap much quicker... the ammonia in windex will increase the evap or Dave's 91% ISO also.

The real key is as all of have said for many moons - make sure the bore is dry before applying your bore protection what ever that might be.

Sproulman - compressors have come down in price dramatically sense the use of oiless motors has become popular. I would try to find a fairly common name brand asthe warranty and repair would be easier to come by. Even your local lumber yard sells them at a reasonable price now days. since you have a Harbour Frieght nearby check these out... I like the pancake compressors as they seem better balanced and easier to move from spot to spot. In my case I have a large shop compressor in the garage/shop and a couple of pancakes for nail guns on job sites, when I use to build and install cabinets

http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?catPath=All%2BProducts%252F%252F%252F%25 2FUserSearch%253Dcompressor&currentPage=2& lastPage=9&isNext=false&isPrevious=false&a mp;category=&attributeValue=&attributeName =&requestedPage=1&resultsPerPage=10&re sultsPerPageBottom=0

I have one of those heat guns, the kind you use for stripping paint. I use that after I have cleaned things like the bolt and breech plugs on my knights. They will dry out right now. Then I put some protective oil like breakfree on them. I have never used the heat gun on the barrel because I always rinse it with very hot water. I would think a person could dry areas around the thimbles if you are worried about moisture in those cracks. You have to be careful around rubber gaskets or plastic parts.
Art

Mike Be careful with an air compressor. If it is humid you can have moisture in the air.We had auto dump valves on the compressors at work along with air chillers and final filters.Moisture is NOT a good thing in electronics.Canned air is a propellant gas and is moisture free.(Used to be Freon before the Eco-Nazies made up stories about the Ozone holes,which by the way open and close on their own.A naturaly occuringphenonomen totaly unrelated to Freon)

Charlie

Chasam60

Yes, I know what you mean air from a compressor certainly can have a small amountof moisture per cubic foot of air used. Temperature of the compressor and humidity certainly can be a factor in the amount. When I use the air compressor it, I usually just turn on the pancake let it fill then use the smallof air that I need. The air also passes through a vapor trap filter.