Dave, I think you did this on purppose.

I know I am having a good time with this informal and unscientific test. Gee, if I had access to the same materials, I would bee doing a test too. This is both interesting and fun.

But now I know what you guys do when it is colder then a well diggers a$$ up north.

rumor is out, daves wife did not want him up on roof shoveling off 5 ft of snow, so she upset the test barrels.

Just wanna say thanks Dave for ALL your testing! You are a great resource for everyone here, and I really appreciate every Test you put forward

I figured i go back and find this post.Any update yet?

Shucks - that's too bad. The BB sample was looking pretty good. I was rooting for it.

I checked the new samples today, and they all show no sign of change. I am starting to believe that all of them are good products.. even bore butter.. to prevent rust. In the container they are in, if they were going to rust, they should have. And not one would store their rifles under these conditions.

So to conclude this test, don't store your rifle in high humidity environments, if you clean your rifles well, and then treat them with a quality product, you are or at leas should be, save from rust.

I am later going to use these sample to test four powders and see which rusts fastest and to what degree. I have not decided on which powders to use. One will be black horn 209, Pyrodex I know will rust the devil out of metal, but there is black powder, and triple seven out there. As some APP... so keep that in mind for the next test ...

cayugad
I assume you do know that the chemistry is different when a powder is burned under pressure than when it is burned in the open. Lee

Great thread guys!

Anyways hear is what i do. For barrel cleaning i start out using "Sweets 7.62" I run a saturated patch (always using a bore guide) thru the barrel and then a dry patch. I repeat this procedure until all signs of copper/lead fouling are removed. Now "Sweets 7.62" does contain ammonia in it so it must be removed from the bore, which in the next step it will be. Next I use a 50/50 mixture of "Kroil" and "Shooters Choice MC#7". Run down a saturated patch and then follow with a dry patch. I then repeat this procedure until the patched come out as clean as they went in. I have had great luck using this process, i never have a need to use brushes in my bores by using this procedure. One look down the bore and you wont go back to anything else!

For the exterior of my rifles i stumbled across "Lucas Gun Oil" (yea the auto oil guys). It comes in a small 1-2 oz. bottle looks very similar to a synthetic ATF fluid. Accually, i'm sure it is just that, re-bottled ATF oil. Well, i guess i don't care if it is, or isn't because this stuff is the best, period! A few drops on a soft, lint free rag and wipe everything down. It leaves a thin coat that LASTS, Also, it wont evaporate off like some of the "solvent" type oils out there, but at the same time its not overly oily either. Sometimes, if i know a rifle will be sitting unused for a long period of time, after the above barrel procedure, i will then run a patch with a few drops of "Lucas Oil" thru the rifles bore as well. followed up by one dry patch.

I am sure that is true, but there is only so much I can do in the conditions I am given. But there is the point that if one powder is treated in the same manner as the rest, there should be some expectations that they will react in a somewhat constant manner.

dave, another site is doing about same as you BUT they sprinkled all different powders on tests to see which powder rusts the worst.

that could be a good test too for you to do on your tests.