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Old 01-16-2008 | 12:23 AM
  #31  
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Default RE: casting

little up date. I just ordered an 4 qt dutch oven. about 14 bucks no shipping

I found about 2lbs of lead laying around the house (12ga shells that I had no use for. sold the 12 ga last fall)
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Old 01-16-2008 | 01:05 AM
  #32  
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ORIGINAL: corey012778

little up date. I just ordered an 4 qt dutch oven. about 14 bucks no shipping

I found about 2lbs of lead laying around the house (12ga shells that I had no use for. sold the 12 ga last fall)
When you get that pot let me know about the quality of it please. I could use an extra one about that size. Thanks, Tom.
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Old 01-16-2008 | 10:19 AM
  #33  
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corey, throw that lead away before you hurt yourself. Shot is usually hardened which means it is NOT pure lead. Look for some old roofing lead or plumbers lead. Don't tear open any batteries - that's a REAL bad idea.

What you don't want to do is have your first batch of bullets come out BAD or too hard. So, when you use scavenged lead, make sure to run it through the pot at high temperature, stir and skim, stir and skim, until you get next tonothing when skimming the junk. Doing this outdoors is mandatory!You could even use an ounce or so of motor oil for fluxing the melt but expect it to catch fire and burn for a bit, once the flames subside, stir in the carbonized residue then let it rise to the top and skim.

Lead that contains even a little antimony should be avoided as it is nearly impossible to separate the antimony. Tin is almost as hard to remove. It's much better to start with the purest lead you can lay your hands on - that would include the roofing, plumbing, x-ray, and shielding leads. Ballast lead from boats/ships is generally high quality but hard for most to find. If you are close to the coast, check the boatyards.
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Old 01-16-2008 | 01:15 PM
  #34  
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Default RE: casting

ORIGINAL: Underclocked

corey, throw that lead away before you hurt yourself. Shot is usually hardened which means it is NOT pure lead. Look for some old roofing lead or plumbers lead. Don't tear open any batteries - that's a REAL bad idea.

What you don't want to do is have your first batch of bullets come out BAD or too hard. So, when you use scavenged lead, make sure to run it through the pot at high temperature, stir and skim, stir and skim, until you get next tonothing when skimming the junk. Doing this outdoors is mandatory!You could even use an ounce or so of motor oil for fluxing the melt but expect it to catch fire and burn for a bit, once the flames subside, stir in the carbonized residue then let it rise to the top and skim.

Lead that contains even a little antimony should be avoided as it is nearly impossible to separate the antimony. Tin is almost as hard to remove. It's much better to start with the purest lead you can lay your hands on - that would include the roofing, plumbing, x-ray, and shielding leads. Ballast lead from boats/ships is generally high quality but hard for most to find. If you are close to the coast, check the boatyards.
I take that you done the battery thing.
what about the slugs and buckshot?

if anyone want some #8 shot pm me. I have 2 pill bottles for free.

I am still gathering stuff. gotta take a buying break. [&:]


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Old 01-16-2008 | 03:09 PM
  #35  
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Default RE: casting

It's addictive I tell ya!
They oughta have a MLA.
Muzzleloaders Anonymous, ......
..where we can talk about not being able to pass up free lead. Or seeing that the CCI caps are 50 cents cheaper at this store than at the gunshop!

Or seeing that T/C, or Knight, or CVA came out with something new without breaking into a cold sweat.

Dang, I love it!
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Old 01-16-2008 | 07:24 PM
  #36  
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Default RE: casting

tell me about it. I got an order coming from one place and one in the batters box at another. and a wish list on 4 sites.

trying to figure out who I know where to get lead, then I remember one thing. I gotta renew my DL, my tags, get my truck inspacted, and get my county tag, I also got to pay my county taxes, all this month

when I get truck inspacted, I talk with the place I get it done at for wheel wights


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Old 01-16-2008 | 09:19 PM
  #37  
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Default RE: casting

Go to a tire shop and get a few pounds of wheel weight's. If they do not want to give you any just tell the guy you want a few. They will give you a few. I use WW in my MZ's. Alot of people say you have to use pure lead in a MZ, I do not buy that, I use WW in my MZ's all the time.

I have asked alot of people why WW can not be used. I have never gotten a GOOD answer. The best answer they could offer up was that WW will not obturate at MZ velocities. If that were true then how would a BPCR bullet obturate at BPCR velocities?? A few other's have said the lead was too hard for the soft steel. That may be true fo a MZ that s 100 years old, but not a modern MZ. Tom.
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Old 01-16-2008 | 09:24 PM
  #38  
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Default RE: casting

I have not had good luck with wheel weights in a ML, except when used in sabots. They were terrible when cast in a REAL mould. The big difference with BPCR is that the bullet is loaded at the breech and is groove size or larger, so it swages down for a tight seal when fired.
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Old 01-16-2008 | 09:43 PM
  #39  
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I am planning to casting some 44 and 45 cals.

head, I'll have that cast iron pot on monday, knowing me I may cook some thing in it and have to order another one for casting. [8D]
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Old 01-17-2008 | 06:13 AM
  #40  
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From: Towanda,pa
Default RE: casting

I have to say that I disagree with Underclocked on the tin
issue..You can burn the tin out of the alloy if your too
hot..
On the issue of wheel weights again,I use them a lot as
well with no ill effects..I have found that if you can get
the weights and some soft lead you can mix the two and
get a nice bullet..I know that if your temperature is not
right your bullets will not be right.Here again,there are several
books written on the casting issue..

One other thing,I think I had mentioned before and that is
if your casting at 900 degrees you at danger of poison fumes..
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