'Nother one on the way
01-14-2008, 12:59 AM
#11
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Staunton,Va
Posts: 3,713
RE: 'Nother one on the way
I suck at finding deals on the net. I have had great luck finding them in person (example: my knight Usak for $40)
I once found a traditions deerhunter for $60. it was sold by the time I went to see if I could get it.
I once found a traditions deerhunter for $60. it was sold by the time I went to see if I could get it.
01-14-2008, 11:23 AM
#12
Typical Buck
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Michigan
Posts: 771
RE: 'Nother one on the way
In order to find the best deals, you have to be constantly looking around. That has been my experience. Plus, I know pretty much how much I'll spend on an ML up front, so if the deal is not exceptional I simply pass without much or any anxiety on my part.
Ifind some nice to exceptionalML's sitting in pawn shops, gun shops and at trade shows (sometimes although the last few years I've been seeing mostly overpriced junk). Even find them at garage sales when I have both the rare desire and opportunity to go "garage sale'ing" [&:].
If I see something at a gun shop that I want and I know it's either been sitting there awhile or with the older style sidelocks or inlines know they will be a slower moving ML anyhow, I'll make a cash offer. Much of the time these older ML's are trade-ins from folks buying new so dealers may be very happy to get a non-current ML out of their inventory.
Travel around with a bore light and a nipple wrench. I also carry a cleaning kit and sometimes will ask if I may clean the bore if I need to remove some crud to see the rifling.
Drop the bore light into the bore. After looking at more bore's than I can remember, you can tell the overall condition even though they are dirty or have some rust. If something looks terrible or the rifling is damaged badly I will pass regardless of the deal unless it's the stock and other hardware I am after.
Ask first ifthey can easily remove the nipple so you may inspect. If they agree but if the nipple will not easily come out or they break it off tryingthen that's an excellent negotiating point in your favor.
Don't you remove the nippleeven if theseller says it's ok,because if it breaks when you are reefing on it you should buy it at their asking price. My feeling one should if you break their ML.
You would be amazed as to the deals you can do with a cash offer. If the seller does not like your offer, will not counter or deal at all, give him/her your number if they change their mind. Have had folks call me up a day, week, month(s) later. Has happened several times.
I bought another really nice .50 T/C New Englander for $50 a few months back. Bore is primo. Stock is bruised and scratched and will require refinishingand the nipple isbroken offinto the barrel, so that will have to be drilled out. But by the time I get finished it will not only look nice but will shoot nice.
Ihave right now a.54 T/C Scoutthat looks almost newfor my helping a friend out of a minor financial pinch worth $200. I told him he did not have to give me anything in collateral but he insisted giving it to me to hold. Since, his fortunes have improved (He and his wife are not only back to work but they finally sold a second home that has been on the market for over a year). So he calls afterwardsand asked if I wanted the Scout or the $200.
Now I have a near mint .54 Scout.
Tahquamenon
Ifind some nice to exceptionalML's sitting in pawn shops, gun shops and at trade shows (sometimes although the last few years I've been seeing mostly overpriced junk). Even find them at garage sales when I have both the rare desire and opportunity to go "garage sale'ing" [&:].
If I see something at a gun shop that I want and I know it's either been sitting there awhile or with the older style sidelocks or inlines know they will be a slower moving ML anyhow, I'll make a cash offer. Much of the time these older ML's are trade-ins from folks buying new so dealers may be very happy to get a non-current ML out of their inventory.
Travel around with a bore light and a nipple wrench. I also carry a cleaning kit and sometimes will ask if I may clean the bore if I need to remove some crud to see the rifling.
Drop the bore light into the bore. After looking at more bore's than I can remember, you can tell the overall condition even though they are dirty or have some rust. If something looks terrible or the rifling is damaged badly I will pass regardless of the deal unless it's the stock and other hardware I am after.
Ask first ifthey can easily remove the nipple so you may inspect. If they agree but if the nipple will not easily come out or they break it off tryingthen that's an excellent negotiating point in your favor.
Don't you remove the nippleeven if theseller says it's ok,because if it breaks when you are reefing on it you should buy it at their asking price. My feeling one should if you break their ML.
You would be amazed as to the deals you can do with a cash offer. If the seller does not like your offer, will not counter or deal at all, give him/her your number if they change their mind. Have had folks call me up a day, week, month(s) later. Has happened several times.
I bought another really nice .50 T/C New Englander for $50 a few months back. Bore is primo. Stock is bruised and scratched and will require refinishingand the nipple isbroken offinto the barrel, so that will have to be drilled out. But by the time I get finished it will not only look nice but will shoot nice.
Ihave right now a.54 T/C Scoutthat looks almost newfor my helping a friend out of a minor financial pinch worth $200. I told him he did not have to give me anything in collateral but he insisted giving it to me to hold. Since, his fortunes have improved (He and his wife are not only back to work but they finally sold a second home that has been on the market for over a year). So he calls afterwardsand asked if I wanted the Scout or the $200.
Now I have a near mint .54 Scout.
Tahquamenon
