Use sabots with a Mossberg conversion barrel?
#1
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
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I own a Mossberg 500 that has a 50 cal. conversion barrel. I have been using Buffalo bullets and want to know if anyone has used sabots and what's your feelings on them. Also question on Pyrodex pellets, how long can they keep? It seems that every once in a while I get what seems like a misfire even though the primer fires it sounds more like a dud than the normal blast.
I'm a rookie here so bear with me [&:]
I'm a rookie here so bear with me [&:]
#2
Geo Tech - welcome to the forum. We were all rookies once ourselves. Never let that stop you from asking questions. Or joining in. You have a rifle many are not aware of so all the information you want to share on it will be welcome.
Your rifle conversion to my understanding has a 1-28 twist so you can shoot shoot sabots just fine. Granted, they are legal to hunt with where ever you live. I would start my testing with something like a 300 grain Hornady XTP and use 80 grain of loose powder, or in your case two pellets. Perhaps some 250 grain Shockwaves might be another good bullet to test. They are normally very accurate in most rifles, and easy to find in local stores.
Pellets can go bad, like anything else. If the pellets are real old it can cause that "POP" that you described or the difference in sound. Another thing to be careful of .. Pyrodex Pellets need to be loaded a certain way. The way they come in their box, think of your hand as a crane. Put the pipe cleaner through the hole of the pellets, lift them, and swing over and deposit them down the barrel. There is a small amount of black powder on their base to aid in their ignition. Another thing that can cause pellets problems is when you swab the barrel you are getting things too wet down there. Make sure the swab you use is just damp. Swab both sides of the patch, and then I like at least two dry patches. I test the second patch to make sure it is dry... Then load as normal. When I store pellets after the season I vacuum seal them with my sealer machine. Then I know they are dry and not moisture in there. Also store them in the original container. Don't take then out unless you are going to use them.
Also you did not mention the primers. Some are cooler then others. With pellets I like the Winchester W209 primers. The Remington Kleenbore work great on loose powder but I have had a "PUFF" with them on pellets.
Hope this answered your questions and helps.
Your rifle conversion to my understanding has a 1-28 twist so you can shoot shoot sabots just fine. Granted, they are legal to hunt with where ever you live. I would start my testing with something like a 300 grain Hornady XTP and use 80 grain of loose powder, or in your case two pellets. Perhaps some 250 grain Shockwaves might be another good bullet to test. They are normally very accurate in most rifles, and easy to find in local stores.
Pellets can go bad, like anything else. If the pellets are real old it can cause that "POP" that you described or the difference in sound. Another thing to be careful of .. Pyrodex Pellets need to be loaded a certain way. The way they come in their box, think of your hand as a crane. Put the pipe cleaner through the hole of the pellets, lift them, and swing over and deposit them down the barrel. There is a small amount of black powder on their base to aid in their ignition. Another thing that can cause pellets problems is when you swab the barrel you are getting things too wet down there. Make sure the swab you use is just damp. Swab both sides of the patch, and then I like at least two dry patches. I test the second patch to make sure it is dry... Then load as normal. When I store pellets after the season I vacuum seal them with my sealer machine. Then I know they are dry and not moisture in there. Also store them in the original container. Don't take then out unless you are going to use them.
Also you did not mention the primers. Some are cooler then others. With pellets I like the Winchester W209 primers. The Remington Kleenbore work great on loose powder but I have had a "PUFF" with them on pellets.
Hope this answered your questions and helps.
#3
Giant Nontypical
Joined: Nov 2005
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While they can go bad especally if gotten damp they normally store well for a couple years,Cayuqad may have pinned down the problem if you put them in upside down or if they have gotten damp; you might also check that your touch hole from the primer to the powder is completely clear.
I also remember that some of the conversions used a #11 cap if thats the case your best answer will be to switch to black or Pyrodex P to get better ignition.
Sabots should work just fine once you get the right petal thickness. Lee
I also remember that some of the conversions used a #11 cap if thats the case your best answer will be to switch to black or Pyrodex P to get better ignition.
Sabots should work just fine once you get the right petal thickness. Lee
#4
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Dec 2005
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ORIGINAL: lemoyne
Sabots should work just fine once you get the right petal thickness. Lee
Sabots should work just fine once you get the right petal thickness. Lee
http://www.mmpsabots.com/and also 1 package of each of these
Harvester Crushed Rib and their black sabot from here: http://www.harvesterbullets.com/sabots.htm
Many bullets can be shotonce you get the right sabot for your bore! The supplied sabot will NOT fit in every rifle, for example I shoot a Parker Ballistic Extreme, which is .450 and the supplied sabot (MMP24) is very loose in my Savage 10ML, so I switched it out for an MMP12. The SABOT MUST BE TIGHT TO GET ACCURACY. "Tighter the sabot, the tighter the group." Hope that helps.
Chap Gleason
Chap
#5
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
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From:
Thanks all for the reply's. I am using 209 primers, and yes I did remember that the pellets are directional. I bought the gun from a local gun dealer (friend) that was if I remember correctly, a promotional "kit". I came with the standard barrel, a riffled slug barrel, and the muzzleloader barrel. It has been a great gun, and I've taken my share of animals with it. The conversion takes about 30 seconds, and the biggest problem I have ever run into is trying to work with the primer especially when your fingers are cold. Our black powder season is during December. I did run out today to Gander's and picked up a new box of pellets some Hornady sabots. I will pay attention to the "tightness" of the sabot, makes sense and let you know how it works. Thanks again for the help,
Gary
Gary
#6
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 3,246
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From:
ORIGINAL: GeoTech
Thanks all for the reply's. I am using 209 primers, and yes I did remember that the pellets are directional. I bought the gun from a local gun dealer (friend) that was if I remember correctly, a promotional "kit". I came with the standard barrel, a riffled slug barrel, and the muzzleloader barrel. It has been a great gun, and I've taken my share of animals with it. The conversion takes about 30 seconds, and the biggest problem I have ever run into is trying to work with the primer especially when your fingers are cold. Our black powder season is during December. I did run out today to Gander's and picked up a new box of pellets some Hornady sabots. I will pay attention to the "tightness" of the sabot, makes sense and let you know how it works. Thanks again for the help,
Gary
Thanks all for the reply's. I am using 209 primers, and yes I did remember that the pellets are directional. I bought the gun from a local gun dealer (friend) that was if I remember correctly, a promotional "kit". I came with the standard barrel, a riffled slug barrel, and the muzzleloader barrel. It has been a great gun, and I've taken my share of animals with it. The conversion takes about 30 seconds, and the biggest problem I have ever run into is trying to work with the primer especially when your fingers are cold. Our black powder season is during December. I did run out today to Gander's and picked up a new box of pellets some Hornady sabots. I will pay attention to the "tightness" of the sabot, makes sense and let you know how it works. Thanks again for the help,
Gary
Chap Gleason




