new to inline hunting
#1
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 48
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Hello, just joined forum and need help, I have ML hunted last 30 years with TC Hawken I built when teenager but I found out last week in the woods the eyes are'nt what they use to be, and have ordered a TC Omega & Nikon Omega Scope, all my experience is with black powder and lead bullets. What supplys do I need and what type of powder and bullets do yall recomend, Thanks
#2
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 3,246
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From:
ORIGINAL: bigpappa
Hello, just joined forum and need help, I have ML hunted last 30 years with TC Hawken I built when teenager but I found out last week in the woods the eyes are'nt what they use to be, and have ordered a TC Omega & Nikon Omega Scope, all my experience is with black powder and lead bullets. What supplys do I need and what type of powder and bullets do yall recomend, Thanks
Hello, just joined forum and need help, I have ML hunted last 30 years with TC Hawken I built when teenager but I found out last week in the woods the eyes are'nt what they use to be, and have ordered a TC Omega & Nikon Omega Scope, all my experience is with black powder and lead bullets. What supplys do I need and what type of powder and bullets do yall recomend, Thanks
Chap Gleason
#4
Welcome to the forum. Its good to have you here.
That sounds like a great set up you have there. Is that Omega scope the one with the BDC? If it is, I thought you were suppose to load three pellets and a 250 grain shockwave to get as near a placement drop from the scope.
I don't own an Omega. I own a Black Diamond XR. When I find a rifle that will outshoot that one, I will buy it. I load 100-110 grains of Triple Se7en 2f and a 250 or 300 grain Shockwave and there better be nothing 150 yards or closer to me... that I want in the freezer.
That sounds like a great set up you have there. Is that Omega scope the one with the BDC? If it is, I thought you were suppose to load three pellets and a 250 grain shockwave to get as near a placement drop from the scope.
I don't own an Omega. I own a Black Diamond XR. When I find a rifle that will outshoot that one, I will buy it. I load 100-110 grains of Triple Se7en 2f and a 250 or 300 grain Shockwave and there better be nothing 150 yards or closer to me... that I want in the freezer.
#5
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 48
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Yea its the one with BDC, when I first started looking there was a fellows review on the scope that was shooting same hole shots at 100, 2" at 200 and 4-6"at 250 holding dead on with the BDC he was shooting 150 of777 since then I have found that most shoot 100grain, I hope I haven't messed up and have a gun that likes 100 and a scope set up for 150. By the way it seems powder choices are leaning to 777 rather than pyrodex, any ideas why
#6
When they shoot those 150 grain loads most of that is done with 3 pellets.
As for powder choice, Triple Se7en 2f is a great powder without question. The thing you might experience using it is a hard crud ring build up down in the breech. That should be removed after every shot so that means you are swabbing the barrel before reloading each time. That is not all that big a deal actually and after a while it becomes second nature to you.
Pyrodex RS is another great powder. Very consistant. Very cost effective when you compare it to other powders and even better when you get it on sale. It will fowl a barrel, but the fowling is much softer. It is also recommended that you swab that fowling out between shots.
Another powder that sometimes shoots real well out of rifles is Amercian Pioneer Powder a.k.a. APP. It is a sugar based powder that you do not have to swab between shots. It loads easy, cleans easy, but some people do not get the kind of accuracy they want. Jim Shockey has a powder out called Shockey Gold which is APP powder. He shoots a Pro Hunter I believe. APP is kind of expensive where I live, and in some of my rifles works fine, in others not worth a hoot. APP is also not very corrosive. I ran some tests on different powders where I tried to rust a lawn mower blade. It was interesting to see which powders really start to effect the metal fastest.
So when I purchase powder I look for consistancy shot to shot, ease of swabbing, and cost. My choice is Pyrodex RS and Triple Se7en 2f. I shoot a lot of Pyrodex RS and Pyrodex P. I think a lot of people get the Triple Se7en because it is a little more powerful the Pyrodex RS and easier to clean up. If you count a couple minutes of your time with a rifle as that important. Also Pyrodex RS is very corrosive. You shoot it, you clean that rifle. Triple Se7en is not as nasty and will give you some time between shooting and cleaning if say you are in a situation where you can not clean the rifle right away.
As for powder choice, Triple Se7en 2f is a great powder without question. The thing you might experience using it is a hard crud ring build up down in the breech. That should be removed after every shot so that means you are swabbing the barrel before reloading each time. That is not all that big a deal actually and after a while it becomes second nature to you.
Pyrodex RS is another great powder. Very consistant. Very cost effective when you compare it to other powders and even better when you get it on sale. It will fowl a barrel, but the fowling is much softer. It is also recommended that you swab that fowling out between shots.
Another powder that sometimes shoots real well out of rifles is Amercian Pioneer Powder a.k.a. APP. It is a sugar based powder that you do not have to swab between shots. It loads easy, cleans easy, but some people do not get the kind of accuracy they want. Jim Shockey has a powder out called Shockey Gold which is APP powder. He shoots a Pro Hunter I believe. APP is kind of expensive where I live, and in some of my rifles works fine, in others not worth a hoot. APP is also not very corrosive. I ran some tests on different powders where I tried to rust a lawn mower blade. It was interesting to see which powders really start to effect the metal fastest.
So when I purchase powder I look for consistancy shot to shot, ease of swabbing, and cost. My choice is Pyrodex RS and Triple Se7en 2f. I shoot a lot of Pyrodex RS and Pyrodex P. I think a lot of people get the Triple Se7en because it is a little more powerful the Pyrodex RS and easier to clean up. If you count a couple minutes of your time with a rifle as that important. Also Pyrodex RS is very corrosive. You shoot it, you clean that rifle. Triple Se7en is not as nasty and will give you some time between shooting and cleaning if say you are in a situation where you can not clean the rifle right away.
#7
Giant Nontypical
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 6,585
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Welcome to the forum bigpappa
I shoot an Omega along with several other TC inlines and a couple hawkins.
I avoided the BDC because of the problem of barrel harmonics, the first qualification for long range is accuracy if the gun wont shoot that load accuratly then you can not hit with it. The cross hairs set normally with it so you can set them at 100 and shoot to find out where the other points of aim actually hit and still make use of them.
What ever powder you have been using is a good place to starteach has several advantages and disadvantages and you will find not all the people here have an open mind about that.
As for sabots the majority of Omegas including mine will shoot the MMP-HPH 24 best but there are exceptions, the 250 Shock Waves are packaged with them. Th best bullet to buy in bluk as far as I know at this time that is good upto 150 yds is the the 250 Gold Dot for deer size animals and the 300 for elk sized although for guns the prefer loads under 120 gr RS I like the 250 & 300 XTP, the Shock Waves are an excellant bullet for heavy loads and long range if you need an extreme range bullet the 50/40 200gr Shock Wave has nothing that compares with it I have used it on deer and boar both close and far with excellant results it has an excellant BC and SD. The 200 gr 40 cal. XTP will work with the same sabot.
http://www.mmpsabots.com/
http://www.harvesterbullets.com/
These are the sabot co. pages.
I recommend taking out the breach plug and trying some different petal thickness sabots befor you spend money time effort and frustration at the range.
If they are not a bit tighter than you would prefer they proably wont shoot good, if they are so loose that they go down easy they might move and act like a barrel obstruction, if they are so tight you have to pound on them they wont shoot good anyway.
For the first time out I suggest 250 Shock Waves and 90 grs powder, remember these are cut barrels and you need to put about 100 shoots through them before they will be broke in.
Also be sure to scrub your barrel good and get the factory preseveritive out if if burns in it will cause problems for months.
I hope this helps
Lee
PS let us know how you do.
I shoot an Omega along with several other TC inlines and a couple hawkins.
I avoided the BDC because of the problem of barrel harmonics, the first qualification for long range is accuracy if the gun wont shoot that load accuratly then you can not hit with it. The cross hairs set normally with it so you can set them at 100 and shoot to find out where the other points of aim actually hit and still make use of them.
What ever powder you have been using is a good place to starteach has several advantages and disadvantages and you will find not all the people here have an open mind about that.
As for sabots the majority of Omegas including mine will shoot the MMP-HPH 24 best but there are exceptions, the 250 Shock Waves are packaged with them. Th best bullet to buy in bluk as far as I know at this time that is good upto 150 yds is the the 250 Gold Dot for deer size animals and the 300 for elk sized although for guns the prefer loads under 120 gr RS I like the 250 & 300 XTP, the Shock Waves are an excellant bullet for heavy loads and long range if you need an extreme range bullet the 50/40 200gr Shock Wave has nothing that compares with it I have used it on deer and boar both close and far with excellant results it has an excellant BC and SD. The 200 gr 40 cal. XTP will work with the same sabot.
http://www.mmpsabots.com/
http://www.harvesterbullets.com/
These are the sabot co. pages.
I recommend taking out the breach plug and trying some different petal thickness sabots befor you spend money time effort and frustration at the range.
If they are not a bit tighter than you would prefer they proably wont shoot good, if they are so loose that they go down easy they might move and act like a barrel obstruction, if they are so tight you have to pound on them they wont shoot good anyway.
For the first time out I suggest 250 Shock Waves and 90 grs powder, remember these are cut barrels and you need to put about 100 shoots through them before they will be broke in.
Also be sure to scrub your barrel good and get the factory preseveritive out if if burns in it will cause problems for months.
I hope this helps
Lee
PS let us know how you do.
#8
Typical Buck
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 647
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From:
I saw a commercial for that scope and gun combo. The said it was for using 150 gr. of powder and 240 gr. bullets. I figure you could probably just test out different combos of bullets and powders and once you get it sighted in you could just figure out how what ranges those lower crosses are gonna be at.
#9
My Omega loves 110gr 777 loose ff and 250gr SST/SHOCKWAVE . Best to find out what load works best Mine has a 3x9 scope on it now but next year I may try the Nikon Omega scope using 120gr 777 loose ff .
Charlie
Charlie




