https://www.24hourcampfire.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=145&osCsid=afb863 b3cb940be116ee8039d9fc013f you can order it there. It's made by Fit4Duty.

It isn't the guns fault that the powder fouls inside the barrel and makes loading difficult. Blame the powder, blame the tight sabots, the primers, but not the gun.

rem 700,thats where you are wrong,it is the guns fault and TC has admited to me and others that gun design is causeing the problem but they are still not willing to change there breechplug design to fix it. the crud rings(FOULING JUST IN THE FIRST 1-1 1/2 WHERE THE BACK OF THE SABOT SETS)has become worse as the gun manufactors have tightened up there actions,the so called sealed breech. knight has had some problems ,but not near as much. doug,the seller of UBC says TC has been testing UBC and has found that it really helps the problem and may offer it as a option with there ml's next year. doug's company is the same company that applies the weathershield on the new triumph so they are working close with TC.

Everytime I read these fouling problem posts it makes me feel even better about my 10ML-II. I use either Vihnt N-110 or AA XMR-5744 and never worry about fouling, crud rings, swabbing between shots, or scrubbing to keep my rifle in one piece and shooting straight. I clean the bore every 50 shots and take out and clean the breech plug and vent-liner every 100. I have no regrets about switching to smokeless powder, which despite the complaining from the so-called "traditionalists" is the first TRUE black powder substitute, entering the commercial scene in 1884 (remember that cartridges like the .45 Colt and .45-70 Gov't were originally black powder cartridges that transitioned to smokeless when handloader SUBSTITUTED smokeless powder for black).

You could always try using real 2F black powder. It doesn't form a crud RING, it forms a uniform layer of crud all the way down the bore, but at least it doesn't take two men and a boy to scrub it out between shots.

Oh, and I do blame the powder, because T7 is the only powder that does it. It might not do it in some rifles, but it does it in most. I had a Knight DISC (original and later converted to a DISC Extreme) before I got my Savage that formed a terrible crud ring with T7. I also have a Traditions Buckhunter inline with a musket cap nipple and a T/C White Mountain Carbine with a #11 nipple (German caps in both) that also get crud rings with T7.

I've never quite understood why some people will try half a dozen pseudo-smokeless "black powder substitutes" that all have many of the same problems of BP itself (i.e. fouling, hygroscopic, corrosive, etc...) and a few uniques problems of their own (crud rings) in an vain effort to acheve smokeless-like performance, but vehemently refuse to even consider trying a Savage 10ML-II with actual smokeless powder. With 45gr of N-110 I can push a 300gr .45cal sabot to an honest 2300fps with less than 1/3 the powder of the needed 150 grains of T7 (read less recoil and MUCH cheaper) and can shoot all day without ever using a swab, patch or brush. Tomorrow (hopefully) I'm going to work up a light shooting load with apx 35gr of XMR-5744 under a 240gr XTP at apx 1500fps, and once I get it worked up and sighted in the way I want it, I will not clean the rifle until after deer season.

Don't be afraid of smokeless muzzleloading. If it's legal in your state give it a try, I can almost guarantee you won't go back.

Mike

Triple seven is not the only powder to create the crud ring. My son's stainless Apex gets a crud ring (not quite as bad as 777) using Pyro P after only one shot. We have to use a wet, not damp, patch to swab between shots using that powder otherwise the range rod gets stuck near the BP. I've also had crud rings in various guns using Black Mag 3. I never have determined the exact reason some of my guns have CR problems and others don't but my guess is, as stated before, it comes down at least partially to BP design.

my triumph was forming the same crud ring with reg pyrodex ,,777,and shockey's gold.and it didnt seem to matter which primer. i shot hornady,knight,powerbelts and barnes ,they all did it.

and my friends omega was worse then my triumph.

Well I have had more than my share of crud ring,Now I am very careful on how I clean the original metal preseveritive out of a new gun, I believe that if it is burned into the pores of the metal its part of the problem[I don't know what they are using now] and find that if you get it completely and truly clean of all oil and metal preseveritive then polish with jewelers rouge it not only helps the crud ring big time but makes loading and cleaning easier to. Lee

When I did a shooting experiment with progressive 5 grain increment loads of T-7 FFFG in my Mustang, one thing I noticed was a greater tendency for a crud ring at lower powder charges, and less crud at higher charges.

I shoot T7 in my sidelocks.I use patched round balls.Patches are lubed with hoppes #9 plus.I shoot 50 plus times at the range without wiping between shoots or cleaning until the next day sometimes.I haven't experianced a crud ring.I do the same with real blackpowder in my flintlock but I clean it when I get home before I do anything else.

I do the same thing with PRB, shoot all day without swabbing. But then again, the patch around the ball is swabbing every time I load so maybe I am swabbing every shot.

Not every gun gets a crud ring. I have one inline that has never had a problem with the 777, or any other powder, crud ring. Both of my kids inlines have issues with it no matter what primer I use and one of them has issues with it with more than just 777. One of my sidelocks also has CR issues even using #11 caps with 777. Now that I said that, I guess the powder may also be a contributing factor along with the gun design. In fact I'm sure there are multiple contributing factors as have been postulated in the above posts.

I guess we are all right.