Alright, I got my yukon out today for the first time and put about 15 rounds through it. I was using pyrodex RS powder and although it seemed that the accuracy was probably there, I had to run at least a dry patch though it after every shot to maintain accuracy. The patch I would run through would always have tons of black crap on it, real thick with a few grains of unburnt powder. Is this normal? Would a different powder allow me to shoot more times between cleaning? The powder was like 2 years old, was this a problem? Thanks in advance. EJ

With pyrodex, you'll usually get some unburnt powder, thats normal for me. It all depends on what bullet you are using. With triple 7, my 45 can take about 4 rounds before i have to clean the barrel to retain the accuracy. If you're using a sabot, They do load harder with a dirty barrel. If sabots are your case, try switching to a .429-.430 44cal. bullet and sabot " green" They load alot easier for me.

What kind of groups were you getting?

Also, use a damp patch followed by a couple dry patches. Running a dry patch will do no good and is a good way to get your ramrod stuck. Been there done that and it aint no fun.

I use a patch with bore butter on it to field clean between shots then a dry patch. Accuracy hold up with that method. It is normal to get tons of crap on it first time down and up, I turn the patch over and run it thru again also. So effectivel I am running 1 patch thru up and down 4 times, twice to each side of the patch. The dry patch I only run down and up twice. Chap Gleason

Pyrodex RS is a great powder but the one draw back is.. it is a dirty powder. Also be very careful running a dry patch down the barrel. Dry patches can get stuck down there easy. Instead, run a "damp" patch down first, working it in small short strokes. After you get to the bottom and work it back, then run one or even two dry patches after. I use a mix of 50/50 car windshield washer fluid and isopropyl alcohol.

The black crud and even unburnt powder is common. There are other powder out there that do not fowl as bad. The question is would you still maintain the accuracy with out the swabbing. It is an unfortunate fact that many inline rifles require a swabbed barrel to maintain their accuracy. These are not the old fashion patch and ball guns where we could shoot all day. Now you do have a fact that the powder is old. And you might want to try some new powder and see if the results change.

Other powders with less swabbing are American Pioneer Powder Company, Goex Pinnacle, Shockey Gold, and Black Mag Three. When you change over to Triple Seven, I find I have to swab to avoid the nasty crud ring, except when I am shooting conicals out of my White UM.

I find the above posts very interesting. I was at the range trying to get a scope dialed in. I was shooting hornady 300g with 100g of 777 and kleenbore primers. I shoot a CVA Optima. I would get a flyer after I cleaned the barrel. Whoever recommended the crushed sabots over the mmp, I appreciate it greatly. They were a piece of cake.

Anyhow, I could go 5 six shots and groups were good. Figure it was time to swab and the first shot on a clean barrel I would get a flyer. Anybody else experience the same thing?

That is not all that uncommon to have a swabbed barrel hit differnt then a fowled barrel. After all you are changign the way the projectile reacts to the rifle. That's why your better off when sighting in to swab between shots.

Thats what my rifle did when i used the kleanbore primers, First shot was right where it should be and then the other 2 shots would drop.

Groups? I am a little embarased to say this but they were a little more like loaners than groups. I never shoot open sights, I have been shooting scoped rifles for 3 years now and can usually make any of my centerfires touch 2 at 100 and the third a little off from them. The best I could do at 88 yards with open sights was about 6 inches. Even if this thing could shoot at 150, I shure couldnt. Anyway, I suppose practice makes perfect.
To OLDROOKIE I will say that the "fouling shot" on a centerfire is real common. The first shot after cleaning is a flyer almost everytime for me. I will have to try some new powder. I just need to shoot more! OH! I was using hornady 385 great plains conicals. EJ

You being from Colorado I am sure will be interested in shooting conicals. I might suggest some maxiball, powerbelts, or saber tooth to try as well. Maybe the Hornadys just are not for your rifle. The others might shoot well. As for the 150 grain loads, not too many people shoot that even though they can. And most rifles only allow that with pellets and not loose powder.

Normally start your shooting at 25 yards if possible. Get used to the rifle before you expect it to start cutting holes at 100 yards. Muzzleloaders are a little differnt then centerfires. Also start the powder charge out light, like around 80 grains. I think the accuracy will be there. Good luck with your rifle.

I might give those powerbelts a whirl. THey seem like they'll fly a little faster anyway. Will I have to worry about plastic buildup with powerbelts? Are maxi-balls better? Why? Just curious. I dont pretend to know anything about black powder shooting. EJ