Shot a spike buck tonight, right at dark. This is the first deer I've shot with a T/C "CheapShot" pure lead sabot, and I'm here to report that this cheapie sabot works just fine. Four bucks for twenty shots, too. A deal.

I was aiming downward pretty steeply - I was high up in my climber, and he was close to the tree - bullet hit top center of neck just forward of sholders - blew through and exited base of throat. He went about three feet, straight down to the ground.

It is great fun to plan and plot and 'work up' the next deadly load, and to pour over ballistic charts. I've done it. But, I'm pretty much convinced that you can hunt with a CheapShot - or a pedestrian XTP, if you want to go extravagant - on top of a modest 90gr of powder, and kill deer just as effectively as using the latest $2.50/shot load.

I don't want to discourage anyone from buying the latest and greatest stuff - it's good for business! - but don't think that you have to, or that you'll gain a great deal.

Also be aware that barrels and sabots come in different sizes in the same caliber as there are no set stanards or tolorances that muzzleloader manufacturers are required to meet.The sabots are reasonably consistant but you have to find what fits your barrel,they should be snug enough to seat solidly and stay,but still go down the barrel with a reasonable amount of pressure.Lee

Lee touches on a point that I don't think has been directly addressed. In a 50 cal ML, you shoot a smaller caliber bullet in a 50 cal sabot. These bullets are usually 40-45 caliber. I only mention it because I nearly bought a 45 caliber sabot/bullet combo for my 50 cal which would have fallen in the barrel and been extremely unsafe. If you purchase the sabot/bullet together (like your picture of the hornady SST) 50cal=50 cal. If you get creative and buy them seperate you'll likely shop for 45 cal bullets and 50 cal sabots. Seperately purchased sabots (MMP & Harvestor for example) will list the bullet diameters that the sabot can handle.

Tom