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#6
Typical Buck
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 563
Likes: 0
From: Greensboro NC USA
Gordo, on my 10ML & 10ML's in stainless, the very first thing I did was to lap the bore. I used J&B bore compound and tight (tighter the better) fitting patches, and replace the patches every 25 passes or so. It takes about 200 passes to smooth out the bore. Stainless steel, during the button cut rifling process, which Savage uses, can leave very fine raised razor blade edges on the lands of the rifling. Lapping will help smoothe the bore and remove the razor edges. You could very well have razoe edges on your lands, causing the tight spot feel.
#8
Fork Horn
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 117
Likes: 0
From: Baxter Tennessee USA
I LOVE mine. It shoots every bit as good or better than my knights and NO MESS.
To each his own I guess, but it seems to me that the ones who talk the worst about this gun are the ones who know the least about it.
Sorta proves the phrase, " we fear that which we do not know".
To each his own I guess, but it seems to me that the ones who talk the worst about this gun are the ones who know the least about it.
Sorta proves the phrase, " we fear that which we do not know".
#9
Typical Buck
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 563
Likes: 0
From: Greensboro NC USA
If you checked every stainless barrel of every rifle, that every major arms manufacture, that still use the button cut rifling method, you would probably find this on just about every single barrel. The ones that hammer forge their barrels do not have this problem, but in many shooters opinion, they are not as accurate as button cut rifled barrels. The reason that these manufactures do not lap their S/S barrels, is purely economics, it takes time and effort to lap thousands of barrels, and time equals money. Of course the top quality custom barrels makers lap their barrels, so that is already done when you get it, that is also why you pay the premium price.


