OK, I did not want to hijack the Bore Butter thread, but this kind of falls along the same line. I would like to keep it simple using minimal number of products.

Here is what I did yesterday, during and after shooting.

First, I cleaned and lightly oiled the bore with CLP prior to going out. I also used Teflon tape on the #11 breechplug per sabotloader's instruction. No other lubricant anywhere else.

Fired a couple caps off prior to loading. Shot roughly 7-8 saboted 300 gr Hornidays through each rifle. On the first few shots I would shoot twice before running a Windex patch and then a dry patch prior to reloading. After the first few, I started doing the Windex patch/dry patch after each shot. The next bullet loaded easier and i just felt better about cleaning out the majority ofthe crud. Only takes a few seconds to do it.

After shooting, the guns went into the safe for several hours until everyone went to bed. I originally soaked the hammers and breechplugs in CLP, but later ended up spraying a little choke cleaner on them and letting them sit. Then brushed with a brass wire brush and cleaned the inside with a q-tip. It all cleaned up very well. Then sprayed them off/out very well with air compressor.

Oh, I also ran a heavily soaked CLP patch down each barrel and then sprayed some choke cleaner In the threaded region and all blackened areas and let it set for awhile. Then ran several dry patches through and then one lightly oiled patch. Then reassembled. Did not put the Teflon in yet, was getting late.

This procedure worked pretty good and as of now, I think I will pretty much continue. The one thing that I did not get out was some of the Teflon tape on the female threads. Would a 12 ga brass brush work well for this?

The bore was bright an shiney when done with minimal effort. Also, the breach plugs came out very easily. The Teflon tape did the job nicely.

Anything I am missing? Have not messed with the trigger at all, or really even looked at it to see if it comes off. Any info on that?

Thanks,
CD

Prior to shooting, I also take an alcohol patch and swab the barrel clean of all oils. I want the barrel very clean when I start. I also use teflon tape on the breech plug, but I smear some anti seize on the tape so that it coats the rifle breech threads.

After I am done shooting for the day, The first thing I do is break the rifle down. I remove the ramrod and then pull the barrel from the stock. I also remove the trigger assembly. I then pull the breech plug right away and put that in some water and dish soap to soak. I also put the hammer in there as well to soak. I use a 32" range rod to clean my rifle by the way.

First clean the exposed breech and hammer/striker area of all fowling you can reach. This is a very dirty area and will take some scrubbing to do so.

At this point I clean the scope if I was using it. After the scope is clean,I take a patch with eithersoap and water or a cleaner like Simple Green and saturate it. I then push that from the breech to the muzzle simply to wet and remove the fowling. I do about three of them.

I then switch over to the bore brush. I wrap a patch around the bore brush and saturate that patch with Simple Green. I then push that up through the breech and into the breech plug threads of the rifle. I now turn that brush in a clockwise direction at least four turns as I move it forward. I then push all of that up through the barrel. Changing patches and saturating the next patch I again do the same thing.

After two or three passes of the bore brush, I change back to the cleaning jag. I then put a patch on that and saturate it with a quality solvent such as Birchwood Casey bore scrubber, Butch's Bore Shine, Birchwood #77 or Rusty Duck Black Off.

This solvent patch will normally bring out the final fowling in the barrel. If you're getting fowling make sure it is not coming from the striker area of the rifle. Run a few of them if you need to.

I then take some dry patches and patch the barrel until the barrel is dry and the patches come up clean. After that I run an oil patch (Birchwood Casey Sheath) through the striker area and barrel area.

Once I know the barrel is spotless and oiled, I take the breech plug and hammer and clean them. I use Q-tips to get into the hard to reach places and a brass bore brush for the stuborn places. I get them spotless. The brush will remove any of the excess breech tape from the threads. One they are clean I wipe them all off dry. I also wipe the spring down as well with a oil cloth.

This is where I clean the trigger assembly. I take some brake cleaner, take the assembly outside and spray it clean. I then take and wipe it down to make sure it is dry. I also then give it a spray of gun oil, and set it aside.

I take a patch and wipe out the laminated stock of any fowling that might be there. I then reassemble the breech plug, attach the trigger assembly next, hammer, spring and lock nut. I put the scope back on, and then wipe the barrel clean of all prints and fowling. After all of that is clean I then put the barrel back in the stock. I put the locking lug bolts back in and do not crank they down, but turn them tightly in place.

Look the rifle over carefully and then wipe it down for the last time. I was told some people store the rifles without the spring in place which I think is a good idea and I am going to start doing that once I figure a way not to loose it. I am one of those people that can set something down on a table in front of them and never find it again.....

I posted the following last night - but somehow think you missed it.

The ramrod moving atad is fairly typical of inlines. You could add a bit of felt or similar to the spring in the stock or justshim it up a little to be a more secure fit. It really isn't that big of a deal though if it only moves an inch or so. You've got to go to that end of the barrel anyway to reload and, if you are hunting, it just makes the ramrod easier to use.

I've had a couple of inlines that dern near threw the ramrod out when fired. With the hollow aluminum rods, my cure was to just bend them a wee bit.

CLP is too expensive to use forsoaking parts and they just don't requirethat expense. I drop all my small parts in acontainer of hot soapy water (not the trigger assembly or breechplug) while I clean the remainder of the rifle. The breech plug goes in a small containerwhich I fill about half full withcleaner called 624 which is made locally. http://techcheminc.com/blended.htm(Iwork on their PCs and get a bonus gallon thrown inwhen I need one). But you don't need to buy that cleaner, any number of off-the-shelf products or homemade solutions will work just fine. I cap the little container then shake it about to get a little washer action then sit it down while working on the other small parts.

The hammer gets a bore brush on the inside and I use a small screwdriver with a patch to clean the hammer face. Just a general wipe down on the other few parts then lay them on a paper towel. Here's the part of my procedure that will make some cringe but I next spray those parts with WD-40 and let them sit for a bit while I return to the breech plug. Pipe cleaners work wonders on breech plugs' flame channels, especially if you dip them in a bit of alcohol first. I run asmall amountof alcohol through the plug's fire channelas a finalflush and just wipe any remaining gunk off the plug, hit it with the air, then let it dry - it gets no lube. Sabotloader has a great procedure for getting the plug ready to reinstall.

If the trigger needs any cleaning... I flush it with alcohol, put the air to it and let it dry,then finally add a drop or twoof CLP.

My compressor sits near where I clean rifles so the WDsprayed parts now get hit with the pressurized air. I putadrop of CLP inside the hammer and rub the surfaces ofall the small parts with a rag that's lightly impregnated with CLP. Theaction cap threads get just a touch of ONE grease or Militec grease.

Trigger goes back on first, then breech plug, then action internals and cap. I make sure the stock is clean and give the spring a drop of lube, then finish assembly. All of that probably takes me about as long as it did to type it.

and added this evening----- As Cayugad said, before shooting swab out any lube from the bore. I don't recommend putting any oil on the breech plug.

Do the tape and grease on the plug (just a touch of good grease over the forward threads and on top of the tape)before you forget and shoot them as they are.

I would use light coatings of CLP as your preservative and just use something like Simple Green, Orange Clean, Windex, for your first cleaning patches. Butch's Black Powder Bore Shine is some good stuff to use for a final patch or two.

cascadedad

The 12 guage bore brush is what I often use, they also make a bore with a wire handle to reach in there. If you do not use grease then either brush will pick up the remanents of the tape and pull it out, if you use grease make sure the female and male threads are clean before putting the tape on, and if you do use grease a little bit goes along ways. I have shot up to 40 rounds and never touch the breech plug until I get home and it comes out quite easy IF you got the seal at the face of the breech plug and the barrel flange - that why I tell you snug - tight - not even finger tight - snug. Here is a hand drawn picture of what I am talking about, hope you can figure it out



You can double click this or follow the link below


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v130/sabotloader/BreechPlug2.gif

The trigger comes off piece of cake - but I am sure that cayugad has covered that.

Thanks guys. All good info.

I didn't use any grease, just the tape. We probably only shot 8 rounds through each gun, but the plug came out super easy.

cascadedad

Call the new GI Joe store in Kennewick - check and see what ML primers they have... Next time I am Spokane - I'll check White Elephant and in Coeur d' Alene - I'll check Black Sheep..

If you get a chance go by Home Depot or Lowes pick up some PINK teflon tape - get a couple of rolls...


check you e-mail...

I've used tape plus anti seize and a word of warning.. it does not hurt to check that plug every 10 shots or so. Just a simple twist back and fourth. No need to remove it. I have yet to have one I could not get out, but I did have to take the rifle to the vice one afternoon, put the square lug in the vice and then turn it out because with the breech removal tool, I felt I was exerting too much force on the rifle and stock when I was trying to remove it the normal way. This was after 30 shots mind you, and I failed to follow my own advice and check the plug.

cayugad

Cayugad not to ever go against any of your advice - i have found if you are using teflon tape and you have the seal made at the face of the breech plug and the face of the flange in the barrel - if you back the breech plug off you destroythe seal and blowback will reach back into the threads. If you are using tape and you back off you might as well remove the plug and re-tape- now adding the grease would/could compensate for moving the plug.

When I remove the breech plug I really have no blow-back at all in the threads at all - using pink tape I could put the whole thing back in again - except for the face tape is gone.

As I reported the first time I shot the White (workout #1). I shot 10 rounds then worring about the plug - I did back it off - it was not tight at all and then I re-tightened it and continued to shoot - 20 rounds later and whne I got home - it was not froze but it did have blow-back about half way back on the plug... since then I have shot it a ton never checked and never had any problem getting the plug out.

Now here is the disclaimer - This works for me in 2 remingtons, 2 A&H's, an Omega, a Firebolt and now a White - BUT your experiances may be different - each gun is different.

Plus with tape only - no possible way to contaminate a load if left in the barrel for a long period of time (outside temp makes no difference)and no greese residue to hold any blow-back in the threads of either the breech plug or the female threads in the barrel.

mike

Well I am glad it works for you. I personally have had once too many experiences with a stuck plug and so I will continue my way. Although I might give your way an honest try just to see if it really works..

cayugad quote, "I was told some people store the rifles without the spring in place which I think is a good idea and I am going to start doing that once I figure a way not to loose it."

I was thinking about this just this morning. The spring sitting there compressed month after month, will weaken it. Probably go a million or morerounds if they are relaxed when not being used. I just made up a ML range box out of a toolbox I bought on sale a while ago. I think I will just put the springs in the top of it. Right next to the caps. If I forget the toolbox, I'm out of luck anyway.

OK, I have to confess. Saturday, I was so excited to go shooting. I is probably about 15 miles to the hill where I shoot. You know where this is going already don't you? Yes, I got there with the boys, got the target put up and it hit me right in the face. Forgot the caps!!!!!!!!! I was NOT going to wait a week to shoot these things, so I drove home, got the caps and drove back. Yes, it was worth it.

sabotloader, when I removed the breech plugs after shooting, I am not sure that the tape actually made the seal where you talk about. It did not look like the picture you sent me. I just used the cheap white tape. Is the pink any different?

CD