RE: Flintlocks
 

A few years back (about 20-25) I was coming back home to NC after a meeting in Atlanta...I had my Bob Watts .45 flinter in the trunk and decided to stop at a shooting range on the way home, I had bought some new powder and wanted to make sure my gun shot it OK....I made a target consisting of a 1 inch square on a piece of paper, I posted down range and was walking back to the shooting shelter when a truck load of guys pulled up with their deer rifles....These guys got out and started making comments about my "flintrock", "flinchrock", "musket" etc....I took a standing rest on one of the shelter poles and touched "Sweetheart" off....From 50 yards away it looked as if I missed....One of the guys walked down range and hollered back...."That SOB put a hole right in the middle"...Sure enough I couldn't have placed it any truer...He bought my target back, I said "Looks like she's good to go"....Packed up my stuff and left.....I wouldn't have shot another round in front of them for
50 bucks. ;)

RE: Flintlocks
 

Oh and one other thing:

I read a test somewhere for lock speed. If your flintlock is tuned properly, it will be able to fire upside down.

Well I tried this one afternoon and sure enough it does work! However you must wear a heavy long sleeve shirt, preferably something fire resistant. When firing upside down the powder will burn down and outward toward your arm. If unprotectedthe burning powder will burn/injure you...

...as I learned one day, the hard way!

~Robert
PS: But it makes for a great story: "there I was, it was a hunred' degrees in the shade.."

RE: Flintlocks
 

Almost any flintlock will shoot upside down.I of course had to try it on my flintlocks like everyone else does, and sure enough, they fire just fine. I also showed that to two young and upcoming muzzleloader shooters at my range. Their father brought his clan over to shoot a newmuzzleloader and get some tech advise. I was shooting my Lyman Trade Rifle .54 caliber flintlock and they were fascinated with the thing. When I told them it would fire upside down, I could see I had them hooked. They doubted it. When it went off I never seen two young boys so tickled. It also helps rid the notion that flintlocks are hard to get to fire. I hear that all the time from my friends.Theytell me, thats a nice looking rifle, too bad they don't fire all the time. The longest stretch I had without a misfire was well over 20 shots. That's with a agate on the Lyman rifle. With flints, if I knew how to knapp I am sure I could get more then that before the thing refuses to ignite the powder. They are fun to shoot without a doubt.

RE: Flintlocks
 

Cayugad.. HOW DOES THE LYMAN TRDE RIFLE COMPARE WITH THE RENEGADE AS FAR AS OVERALL WEIGHT,I ALWAYS LIKE TO GET A FLINTER IN THE TRADE MODEL IN 54 CAL. AND A FLINTER
TOO BAD THEY DID NOT MAKE THE BARREL IN A 1 IN 66 TWIST

RE: Flintlocks
 

They are very close in weight and balance. Although the Trade Rifle is much more comfortable to shoot a powerful load because of the stock design. I agree, if that rifle had a 1-60 twist like the GPR that would really make a great rifle.

RE: Flintlocks
 

I happen to have a custom made Isaac Haines Pennsylvania Rifle. Actually, it is a reproduction of an Isaac Haines rifle, made by my Uncle. It sports a 38" Getz barrel with a 1:56" twist, swamped of course. Siler lock and double set triggers. It wieghs in at 7 1/2 pounds and is 54 caliber. It is truly an eye opener to shoot a quality flintlock. Prior to this rifle I had a T/C Hawken in 54 caliber. The custom rifle is much faster, lighter, accurate, and pleasant to shoot.

Some myths about flintlocks -

Use FFFF for priming. The truth is, FFF works better for hunting. The larger powder has less surface area than FFFF and thus gets wet slower. Also, FFF is a coated powder, FFFF is not.

Use FF for main charge. The truth is you CAN use FF, but why when FFF works just as well and you use less powder for the same amount of velocity? Thus, if you use FFF for both prime and main charge you carry only one powder horn.

1:48" twist is a compromise between bullets and balls. Truth is, 1:48" twist doesnt really work well for anything.

Round ball guns need 1:60, 66, or 72" twist. Truth is, they dont. My 1:56" twist shoots rings around my Uncle's 1:72" twist gun.

Round ball guns are only good for 100 yards or less. Utter hogwash. The limitation on a roundball gun is the reliability of the shooter to place the shot.

RE: Flintlocks
 

While I agree with you ought six on many points there are a couple that I guess I might hold a different opinion.

I have a number of 1:48 twists which are outstanding roundball shooting rifles. Not that I would enter them in a shooting competition, but for hunting they are more then acceptable. While I am not saying all 1:48 twist are, there are many moderate twist barrels what will hold their own with many of the "roundball" barrels. Their advantage is many of them will shoot conical loads well at the same time. Which makes them a nice all around twist for the average shooter.

The reason many people consider roundball rifles a 100 yard rifle is the amount/degree of energy the ball has lost at that point. While there are cases where roundball have taken game all the way to 200 yards, the "average" roundball shooter does not have the skill to make such shots with their rifle much further. As you said, the limitation of the roundball is by ones ability to place the shot. As much as I practice with a number of roundball rifles, I would still limit my .50 calibers to 100 yards and the .54 and bigger to 125 yard tops. That's the best I personally feel comfortable with. If a person and their rifle can only hit and produce an average group at 50 yards, then that is all the rifle should be used at when hunting.

Also the FFF prime is good advise. I have two pounds of FFFF which I have slowly been shooting off now for a couple years, when I was told I needed it for priming my pans...:D

RE: Flintlocks
 

[quoteSome myths about flintlocks -

Use FFFF for priming. The truth is, FFF works better for hunting. The larger powder has less surface area than FFFF and thus gets wet slower. Also, FFF is a coated powder, FFFF is not.

Use FF for main charge. The truth is you CAN use FF, but why when FFF works just as well and you use less powder for the same amount of velocity? Thus, if you use FFF for both prime and main charge you carry only one powder horn.

1:48" twist is a compromise between bullets and balls. Truth is, 1:48" twist doesnt really work well for anything.

Round ball guns need 1:60, 66, or 72" twist. Truth is, they dont. My 1:56" twist shoots rings around my Uncle's 1:72" twist gun.

Round ball guns are only good for 100 yards or less. Utter hogwash. The limitation on a roundball gun is the reliability of the shooter to place the shot.

][/quote]

I can't be quite that dogmatic . I've played with traditionalmuzzleloaders and realBP for about 30 years now. I've been blessed to play with some good custom guns by some talented people, some guns I have built, and many production guns, some fairly expensive, and some pretty cheap. The one homest word you wil find in most descriptions about guns on general, and even more so with ML is USUALY. For instance, . I've seen some 1/48 barrels that were accurate way beyond what they "should" be, with ball or conical. I've seen 1/72 shoot better than 1/56, and also the other way around. Every firearm is an individual, and every one is different. You can say, quite legitemately, [quote My 1:56" twist shoots rings around my Uncle's 1:72" twist gun.
][/quote]
I'm sure it is true. I am also sure there is a 1/72 barrel out there that will beat your 1/56.
Some of my guns, rifle and smoothbore, shoot better with FFg than FFFg. I like carrying one powder when hunting, so I often use FFFg because I am lazy, not because it works just as well.

Not trying to argue, just making a note about some of the things I have seen over the years. Your miliage may vary...