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Chasam 60 - Rem Schematic

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Old 03-04-2006, 08:48 PM
  #1  
Boone & Crockett
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Default Chasam 60 - Rem Schematic

Chasam60

I was not sure that you would find this at the end of that other thread so I put it out here...

I think this is what Roscoe is talking about... again If a guy could only see the gun...

Trouble shooting over e-mail fun - I use to do this of a radio at sea when I was in the Navy - funny how two people looking at the same schematic can see two different pictures....

More speculation:::: Maybe the pin was broken by blow-back pressure forcing the bolt rearward violently.This blow back can really be a hammer on that pin. Since this probably happened prior to installing the Cabelas conversion and I am speculating it was probably because of a weak hammer spring.When the Cabelas conversion was installed the spring should/would have been changed then and the problem should have ceased, BUT if blow-back continues you might want to go to Brownells.com and order replacementWolff Blitzscnell hammer springs.Remington normally installs a spring rated around24 lbs. the replacement springs come in 28# amd 32#. I have 28's installed in my 2Remingtons.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=16583&title=BLITZSCHNELL+ STRIKER+SPRINGS

#969-634-028 --> 28# spring
#969-634-032 --> 32# spring

Rem 700 Parts Schematic

http://www.e-gunparts.com/productschem.asp?chrMasterModel=0860z700

Schematic



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Old 03-05-2006, 11:54 AM
  #2  
Typical Buck
 
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Default RE: Chasam 60 - Rem Schematic

Now I see what you mean. I never thought to look at that part. I will check today if I can.-Thanks to both f you.

Charlie
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Old 03-05-2006, 07:46 PM
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Default RE: Chasam 60 - Rem Schematic

Sabotloader - thanks for posting schematic. Often wish I was more computer literate. The parts that are generally amiss when a gun has the problems that Chasam 60 is describing are the engagement between part #17 and part #50. The pin that holds the cocking piece (#17) to the striker is part #18. Sometimes, part #18 breaks and allows part #17 to slip back a little before it binds up and holds it there. Gun can't cock completely when the bolt is closed. You hope that the broken pindoesn't decide to suddenly let go when firing because part #17 will forcefully hit you in the face just to the side of your nose. Not common, but I have seen it happen.

The part of the bolt the gunsmith was talking about in Chasam 60's post as being worn out is most likely part #17 - the cocking piece. In particular, the tab at the bottom of the cocking piece is worn significantly. If so, easy fix is new cocking piece. $23. Midway and Brownell's have them. Only fork in that road is that thereare the ISS and older non-ISS cocking pieces (ISS is the little lock at the back of the bolt that was discontinued this year).

One easy little "isolate the variables" exercise is to swapstriker assemblies with the boltout of the same model rifle. If it still doesn't work with the different striker assembly, something is amiss with the Timney trigger assembly. If it now works, then you know something in the originalstriker assembly(which includes the cocking piece,part #17) is the problem.

Send me a PM if you run into any issues with troubleshooting this. Good luck. Roskoe.
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