Omegalover

Greets all!

First, let me apologize, this has probably been cussed and discussed in this forum but I did a search or two on working up a load and didn't find the answers I need. I am not completly sure I need to do anything at all yet.

I have been hunting with aT/C Omegaforless than 14 months, this is my first blackpowder experience. Normally Ishoottwo50 grainpellets of777 and 250grain Shockwaves, and can keep 1.5 inch groups at 100 yards.

I would normally think that a lighter bullet, say 200 Grain and higher powder load would produce a flatter trajectory, hence more accuracy. However, I have been talking to a few folks and it has been suggested I check a heavier sabot, 300 Gr plus, and start with 90 grains of loose.

I have never been around anyone working a custom load for their rifle, soonly have hearsay and conjecture to go on.

I will probably never shoot in any competitions or anything like that and cant really gripe about the accuracy I am getting. Would this be a waste of time and energy?

Why would a heavier bullet produce a better shot group?

Is using a chronograph essential for this? If so hopefully they arent too expensive.

I understand why a heavier bullet could have more downrange Kinetic Energy,but not the accuracy thing. Also it would seem to me that a lighter bullet with higher muzzel velocity would tend to balance out the heavy weight but slower bullet.

In working up a load for my Omega, if I pursue it,it would be helpful if I dont have to completely reinvent the wheel, just fine tune it a bit.

Looking to hear from some of the more experienced than me. Oh, that would be just about everyone here.

Thanks in advance for your responses.

eldeguello

"I would normally think that a lighter bullet, say 200 Grain and higher powder load would produce a flatter trajectory, hence more accuracy."

I don't know where peo[ple get the idea that a flatter trajectory which results from a higher velocity somehow equates to better accuracy, because it DOES NOT!! The only possible advantage would be that hitting is easier if you don't have to be as precise in estimating range and holdover.

Despite the fact that they can be launched faster, lighter bullets suffer from some possibly significant disadvantages too. One, they may be too short for optimum accuracy from the twist rate your particular rifle has. In addition, although they start out faster, they also shed velocity faster, and may therefore have less downrange energy.Also, while their short-range trajectory may be flatter (the best of all in this regard is the round ball), further out, their trajectory becomes quite steep due to the rapid loss of initial velocity. Lastly, the lower sectional density of a lighter bullet reduces thge buillet's ability to penetrate,limiting the angle of the shots you can make with it.

IF you are getting 1.5" groups from your present bullets, I think that's great. I don't know if a lighter bullet would do as well, but a bullet heavier than your present oneis just as likely to improve your groups as is a lighter one.

Longbow Bowhunter

Ok, having been in the business for awhile,I have seen this. I am shoot a XXX brand gun with a 1:28 twist ans shooting a 200 grain bullet at anything over a 100 grains of powder I am not getting good groups. You have to match the bullet to the gun. yes you can shoot a 200 grain bullet but adjust your powder charge accordingly at most likely around 75 to 80 grains. shoot the 300 grain 330 grain bullet with 100 grains and I bet it will be very accurate. No you don't need a chronograph to do your testing. find the accurate load then chrono the load.

Now that I have said all this. PR Bullets, and one or two others make some light bullets that should do very well in your rifle due to design, yea there are going to be folks who disagree with what I said, but it is true. if you want to shoot a 200 grain brand X bullet fast, get a gun with the approiate twist.

I have a traditions 45 caliber with the1:20 twist. shooting a 330 gr conical andI forget the sabot bullet weight but it is in the upper end for the rifle. I cannot shoot over 80 grains and get any accuracy. so much for shooting 150 grains, or even a 100 grains. Good luck.

sabotloader

Omegalover

First of all welcome to the questions board - I believe this to be one of the best forums around combining great people and both areas of ML shooting - inline and traditional.

Just my personal thought - you are probably already shooting the best all around 50 cal bullet weight. The 250/260 grain bullet is really quite versitile offering many +++++. The 200 grain does offer more velocity, thus flatter - but on the other end - the business end I believe it to be a bit deficient - not much mind you, but enough to outweigh the velocity gain. If you are in need of constantly making a 200 yard shot on game (thin skinned game) then you should probably go for the 200 grain. If you are going after thick skinned critters then look at the 300 grain. I use it pretty much for both elk and whitetail and it functions great.

The twist of your rifle and matching the ultimate length & weight of the bullet you are shooting create stability - the greater the stability the greater the accuracy - excluding external forces.

I do not know that you NEED a chrono for your purposes but they are certainly helpful - that is the excuse I used to get one - I wanted to know velocity - now that I have one I only use it on occasions.

I am not shooting an Omega - I am shooting 2 Rems and an A&H besides a couple handfuls of side hammers. I am not sure this is the best load for my guns or not but it certainly is an effecient load on animals. I am not a fan of really expensive bullets or bullet sabot packages. Right now I am doing a heck of a lot experimenting with the new Speer Gold dots. They are a bonded bullet both 250 and 300 grain. I shoot them them and expect to perform from 20 yards to 150 yards. Conditions being right I would have know problem shooting 200 yards with them either.

All of this just my 2 cents....

lemoyne

Omegalover ,We all have our preferances,my Omega Likes the 50/40 200gr Shock Wave and it shoots it with max load into a very tight group.
The weight thing,since the 40 stands for 40 cal. the bullet is long about 2 cal long this helps give good sectional density and BC to go with the high volicity. The 250 is a very good all around bullet and I think had to beat when the gun likes it.I like the .475 cal. 325gr For Hog and Bear and if I ever draw an Elk tagI will use 300gr they will all shoot good enough with the right load. Lee

little-d

this is my setup. i use thecci primers,precision black mmp hi pressure sabots,i have my scope setup for 451. diameter230 gr xtp hp,and i use 150gr.s of 777. i have it set where it hits 2 inches above a 2 inch bullseye at 50 yards. at a 100 yards its dead on or a tad high,at 150 its right on,at 200it starts droping a few inches or so ,at 250 its drops 15 inches. and all these shots were made using a gun vice. i have tried the 230 gr. full metal jacket xtp and they stack one on top of another, i also shoot 300 gr plated soft point bullets made by speer,they drop alot faster but they go all the way through and that what counts when shooting big hogs. i tried the dead center bullets and had very good grouping but i can't aford to shoot them. My xtps cost about $13.oo per 100 and the sabots are about $5.50. per 50