Am i nuts to feel like this?
#11
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Kerrville, Tx. USA
Posts: 2,722
The 30-06 has killed more elk than all other calibers combined! So not only is it adequate, but it is more than adequate out to 400 yards. In fact the next time I hunt elk with a rifle, I will likely take my '06 and I also own a 7mm mag and a 338 win mag. You have PLENTY of gun.
Also, ammo makes a difference. Hornady makes some ammo called superformance that ups the power of the '06 to that of a 300 win mag. Look at that ammo with the 165 gr or 180 gr interbond or GMX bullets. I like the 165 gr for power and trajectory.
Also, ammo makes a difference. Hornady makes some ammo called superformance that ups the power of the '06 to that of a 300 win mag. Look at that ammo with the 165 gr or 180 gr interbond or GMX bullets. I like the 165 gr for power and trajectory.
Last edited by txhunter58; 02-14-2011 at 04:53 PM.
#12
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 63
Ya i think im just going to spend some money on better hunting clothing and stuff like that and just Practice alot with the rife i have. We just switched to rife where i hunt about 2 years ago so i have been a shot gunner for 11 years. The being in shape part im not to worryed about casue i race motocross and snowcorss so im pretty sure i have that covered. Its hard not to get sucked into buying lastest and greatest hunting equipment.
#13
Fork Horn
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: NW Colorado
Posts: 199
Ya i think im just going to spend some money on better hunting clothing and stuff like that and just Practice alot with the rife i have. We just switched to rife where i hunt about 2 years ago so i have been a shot gunner for 11 years. The being in shape part im not to worryed about casue i race motocross and snowcorss so im pretty sure i have that covered. Its hard not to get sucked into buying lastest and greatest hunting equipment.
Find a good premium bullet that will shot well in your rifle. I prefer Barnes TSX, but there are lots of choices these days.
Boots: they can make or break an elk hunt fast. Get some and try them out. Make sure you carry a load with them. Load your backpack up with some weighs or sand, and try the boots out on a little hike.
#14
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Kerrville, Tx. USA
Posts: 2,722
The things to invest in that can make or break a hunt: Good boots that don't make blisters and don't let your feet get wet. Good long johns (polypropylene) that wick moisture (NEVER use cotton), good rain gear (packable is what I prefer. Wear other clothes to keep warm, just cover them with raingear when needed. A good sleeping pad (or cot) and a warm sleeping bag.
If your feet hurt, if you get cold and wet, if you are cold at night, you will be miserable.
If your feet hurt, if you get cold and wet, if you are cold at night, you will be miserable.
#15
When you put a bullet through the elks chest.....
The elk don't care if you spend $400 or $4000 for your rifle.
They don't care if you spend $20 or $60 for you ammo either.
They don't care if you are wearing jeans or the latest designer camo clothing.
What you need to care about is boots, warm clothes, socks, rain gear, binoculars, internal frame back pack, Day pack, light weight sleeping bag, sleeping pad, Ibuprofen, med kit, parachute cord, several knives, packable saw, water purification tabs, emergency blanket, two flash lights/head lamp with extra batteries, emergency fire starters, Lighter, water proof matches, SUNSCREEN, packable pots and pans, packable stove or two, toilet paper, maps of the area, camera, game bags, flo-orange flagging tape, food.
I'm sure I am missing stuff. If you google elk camp supplies or something like that you should be able to find multiple lists that people have put together.
Hydrate hydrate hydrate and then hydrate some more.
Lots of carbs and protein.
No caffeine and no alcohol.
Keep a clean change of clothes in your vehicle for the ride home.
Keep coolers locked up in the truck for transporting boned out meat.
.
The elk don't care if you spend $400 or $4000 for your rifle.
They don't care if you spend $20 or $60 for you ammo either.
They don't care if you are wearing jeans or the latest designer camo clothing.
What you need to care about is boots, warm clothes, socks, rain gear, binoculars, internal frame back pack, Day pack, light weight sleeping bag, sleeping pad, Ibuprofen, med kit, parachute cord, several knives, packable saw, water purification tabs, emergency blanket, two flash lights/head lamp with extra batteries, emergency fire starters, Lighter, water proof matches, SUNSCREEN, packable pots and pans, packable stove or two, toilet paper, maps of the area, camera, game bags, flo-orange flagging tape, food.
I'm sure I am missing stuff. If you google elk camp supplies or something like that you should be able to find multiple lists that people have put together.
Hydrate hydrate hydrate and then hydrate some more.
Lots of carbs and protein.
No caffeine and no alcohol.
Keep a clean change of clothes in your vehicle for the ride home.
Keep coolers locked up in the truck for transporting boned out meat.
.
#16
I own a Marlin Xl7 in 30-06. Last time I was at the range in 2010 sighting in for elk season there were several other people there with much fancier guns. The Marlin shot as good or better than my buddy's kimber and tika light with no problem out to 200 yards. as long as you practice and the gun fits you well go for it.
Like said above the elk doesn't care what your toting around in the woods. the Marlin Xl7 is a great gun and the accu trigger type system on it allows for full trigger adjustment and you'll flench less with that type of trigger.
I was getting tight groups at 200 yards. As long as your in the pie plate an elk will be going down.
Like said above the elk doesn't care what your toting around in the woods. the Marlin Xl7 is a great gun and the accu trigger type system on it allows for full trigger adjustment and you'll flench less with that type of trigger.
I was getting tight groups at 200 yards. As long as your in the pie plate an elk will be going down.
Last edited by Alpine_Archer; 02-16-2011 at 03:12 AM.
#17
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location:
Posts: 2,395
You do not need to change a thing.
You will find pleanty of thing to spend money on, before your elk hunt.
I recommend looking at good quality hunting boots, binos or a scope with better quality glass. Nothing wrong with the one you have, just another way for you to spend your money.
You will find pleanty of thing to spend money on, before your elk hunt.
I recommend looking at good quality hunting boots, binos or a scope with better quality glass. Nothing wrong with the one you have, just another way for you to spend your money.
#19
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location:
Posts: 6,357
i don't know anything about your specific rifle-scope combination. Certainly a .30-06 shooting 180 grain bullets is up to the task of hunting elk.
If your rifle shoots reasonably accurately, it will suffice. Reasonably accurate means putting 5 sequencial shots into a 1.5" diameter circle at 100 yards. Distinguish between YOUR capability and the rifle's capability. If the rifle can do that, you can kill elk with it. You may need to improve your marksmanship -- for example marksmanship from the field positions you will employ when shooting elk -- but the rifle will do the job.
I don't know anything about your scope, but I can identify the properties that you need. The scope must be free from fogging in the presence of temperature changes and a wide range of humidity. Again, distinguish between fogging INSIDE the scope (can't have that) and fogging OUTSIDE the scope (condensation on the lens -- wipe that off and you are good to go). The scope must be robust to stand up to the hammering of rifle shots. If you have had the rifle at the range enough to know whether it shoots into a 1.5" diameter circle at 100 yards, you probably know whether the scope can hold up to the shooting. Scopes that are NOT up for hammering will not shoot to the same point of aim. I had a cheap scope on an inherited rifle that had this problem, and I discovered that the whole aft portion of the scope could be readily wiggled from side to side 1/8" or more. That was NOT a good sign of mechanical integrity. Basically, if the scope is free from internal fogging and it consistently shoots to a single aim point, it will get the job done. Higher quality scopes may have advantages in lower light conditions, may have other desirable features such as adjusting magnification from long distance shooting needs (10x setting) to short distance shooting needs (3.5x setting). These are nice and useful features. But do remember that hunters long ago still managed to successfully hunt elk with scopes that were considerably lower quality than today's scopes.
Remember, the purpose of the rifle-scope is to ethically kill an elk at a reasonable hunting distance. It doesn't have to be pretty or expensive to achieve that objective. And success in hunting is more than likely going to depend more on other factors than the difference between a modest rifle-scope combination and a higher quality rifle-scope combination. For example, being in shape so you can hunt hard for 5 or 7 days in a row. For example, getting up early enough in the morning to walk in the dark to your choosen hunting spot by 30 minutes before legal shooting light. For example, by actually using your rifle-scope with skill and marksmanship when taking the shot (said in another way, people using expensive Weatherby rifles scoped with expensive Swarovsky telescopic sights are not immune from being poor marksmen and missing the shot when the 8x8 400+ monster shows up).
If your rifle shoots reasonably accurately, it will suffice. Reasonably accurate means putting 5 sequencial shots into a 1.5" diameter circle at 100 yards. Distinguish between YOUR capability and the rifle's capability. If the rifle can do that, you can kill elk with it. You may need to improve your marksmanship -- for example marksmanship from the field positions you will employ when shooting elk -- but the rifle will do the job.
I don't know anything about your scope, but I can identify the properties that you need. The scope must be free from fogging in the presence of temperature changes and a wide range of humidity. Again, distinguish between fogging INSIDE the scope (can't have that) and fogging OUTSIDE the scope (condensation on the lens -- wipe that off and you are good to go). The scope must be robust to stand up to the hammering of rifle shots. If you have had the rifle at the range enough to know whether it shoots into a 1.5" diameter circle at 100 yards, you probably know whether the scope can hold up to the shooting. Scopes that are NOT up for hammering will not shoot to the same point of aim. I had a cheap scope on an inherited rifle that had this problem, and I discovered that the whole aft portion of the scope could be readily wiggled from side to side 1/8" or more. That was NOT a good sign of mechanical integrity. Basically, if the scope is free from internal fogging and it consistently shoots to a single aim point, it will get the job done. Higher quality scopes may have advantages in lower light conditions, may have other desirable features such as adjusting magnification from long distance shooting needs (10x setting) to short distance shooting needs (3.5x setting). These are nice and useful features. But do remember that hunters long ago still managed to successfully hunt elk with scopes that were considerably lower quality than today's scopes.
Remember, the purpose of the rifle-scope is to ethically kill an elk at a reasonable hunting distance. It doesn't have to be pretty or expensive to achieve that objective. And success in hunting is more than likely going to depend more on other factors than the difference between a modest rifle-scope combination and a higher quality rifle-scope combination. For example, being in shape so you can hunt hard for 5 or 7 days in a row. For example, getting up early enough in the morning to walk in the dark to your choosen hunting spot by 30 minutes before legal shooting light. For example, by actually using your rifle-scope with skill and marksmanship when taking the shot (said in another way, people using expensive Weatherby rifles scoped with expensive Swarovsky telescopic sights are not immune from being poor marksmen and missing the shot when the 8x8 400+ monster shows up).
Last edited by Alsatian; 02-17-2011 at 11:08 AM.