I ' ve got a question for you fellas that with sticks and string. What is a " cut on impact broadhead" ? Don' t they all pretty much cut on impact?

DBE, a cut on impact BH is one where the blade(or razor) goes right to the tip of the BH. Typically most BH fixed or mech. have a chisel style tip on the tip prior to the blades(razor), while this will puncture more than a cut(think of it as forced entry, slows down the progress some what). A cut on impact will take less pressure to penetrate, as the cutting process is intiated on impact with the target, rather than delayed somewhat. Leads to less resistance and ulitmately should = further penetration/faster. It is not essential by no means, if you get them to fly well out of your compund they produce great results and what most guys opt for when using traditional archery equipment. Since a great number of guys shoot faster compound bows, the thought is they have more KE to produce enough penetration to use almost any head, where older traditional style string flingers needed more with less.

If you are chasing deer the point is some what moot with newer compounds, as they are fairly easy to penetrate...but throw in them bigger, tougher hide critters and penetration is a huge advantage. While a traditional fixed(chisel) style head has taken many a elk and moose, I would hazard to say a cut on impact would still produce better results faster regardless of the style of archery equipment used. However some find the traditional 2 blade cut on impact as harder to tune and fly correctly. Also the buzz now is more blades = better blood trail. You seem to see people follow trends or stick to what has worked in the past in BH' s. While i am guilty of doing the same with Muzzy' s, I have experienced cut on impact heads and with the newer style heads available in 100 grains they are something that should be considered.(especially when bigger game is on the menu) My experience with the magnus stinger 4 blade heads are, they fly as good as my muzzys, are sharper and show increased penetration.....given that I find it hard not to give them a go this fall.

More info than you probably needed, but hope it helped!!!

I also have to agree with leaving the mech' s at home. I use the Muzzy 100grn 4 bld for Wapiti. I have yet to lose an elk...............


For what it' s worth I know that Wayne Carlton uses mechanicals...........

Cheque the state you are hunting, that is if your comeing out west as some states don' t allow mechanicals. I have never used mechanicals so I can' t really comment on them other than problems from those that have used them, the muzzys or thunderheads are about the best fixed broadheads that you could use, just gotta hit em in the ole bead basket and practice some of those 30 yd. shots. Good Luck, Bobby

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There are just way too many good fixed and replaceable broadheads out there that fly beautfiully to be wasting time with a contraption whether the quarry is Deer or Elk. I really like Thunderheads but the other replaceables will be just fine and probably do the same job....Cut on Impacts are superior especially for Elk but I couldn' t sharpen one to save my life never mind take an Elks life..

Skeeter; Thanks for the primer on broadheads. I appreciate it. I don' t hunt archery....yet..... but hope to live in an area someday that' ll make it feasible for me to do so.

Is it hunting season yet!! What is taking so long!!

I WOULD ALSO SAY LEAVE THE MECHANICALS HOME. I USE THE WASP HAMMER SST 9OGR. HAVE TAKEN 4 BULL ELK WITH THEM, NO BROKEN OR LOST BLADES,AND HAD GOOD PENETRATION ON ALL WITH ONE PASS THROUGH.

There' s really no reason to " YELL" is there. We can hear ya just fine with small letters Oh, and by the way, WELCOME TO THE BOARDS

I shot a 364" bull last fall with a 125 gr. Rocket Steelhead. By far the most lethal damage I have experienced with a broadhead on an elk. You can read about it in this month' s Bugle mag.