Exactly. Sylvan. Gains in KE with arrow weight are minimal but gains in momentum are directly proportional to the arrow's weight. Increase the arrow weight by 30%, you've increased KE maybe only 2-3 ft lbs, but have added 30% to your momentum factor. At the same time, effect on trajectory is practically nil, at typical hunting distances. Doesn't make much sense to me to be pushing the edge on arrow weight in the interest of flat trajectory, when a modest increase in weight is so beneficial - especially on downrange performance - and has such a minor effect on trajectory.

I still live by the old archery addage, "For hunting arrows, use the heaviest arrow that will still give you acceptable trajectory." It works for all bows at all performance levels and with all legal draw weights. Go by the adage and you'll get a good hunting arrow. Seems like many guys are trying to make up a new one: "For flattest trajectory, use the lightest arrows you can, then pencil whip the KE to make it look like it's an acceptable hunting arrow." It'll work for high performance bows but you start sliding down the scale on performance and they start sucking wind pretty quick. Then choosing a proper broadhead design gets critical at lower power levels, so I always recommend a sharp, cut on impact 2-blade head. Again, it works on all arrows regardless of the bow's performance level as long as it's legal draw weight and properly tuned.

I've tried the light arrow stuff and found out it was more work than I ever wanted to put into it. I found I was spending more time fiddling with the bow than shooting it. I found out my shoulders didn't like the draw cycles they're building into cams these days. But back to arrow weight...

Follow me on this'n. Say you shoot a light arrow vs a heavier one. Say your lighter arrow is carrying only 2 ft lbs less energy than the heavier one. Okay, since physics tells us that energy cannot be destroyed, those other 2 ft lbs have to be somewhere. Since the arrow doesn't have 'em, then obviously they're still in the bow. Right? Say you shoot 100 arrows that day. You've subjected your bow to 200 ft lbs of extra energy which becomes noise, heat and vibration. Say you shoot a hundred arrows a week, year round. At the end of the year, your bow will have absorbed more than five tons of excess energy. Five extra tons of noise, heat and vibration. Of course, noise disperses part of that energy into the atmosphere and part is transmitted through the bow into your hand, wrist, arm and shoulder but, hopefully, you see the point I'm trying to make. To get an idea of how much excess energy you've got impacting the bow with on every shot, take a 2-pound lead weight, raise it exactly 1 foot over your big toe and drop it. (Pause for folks to conduct said experiment.) Did it feel good? Wouldn't you rather have that much more power in your arrows rather than dropping on your toe?[8D]

Any questions why your sights and rest move and have to be reset over the course of the year? Any questions why so many guys buy a new bow every year? Any questions why I won't buy a used compound?

True fact of the matter is that, in the general population, not 1 guy in a hundred - maybe even one in a thousand - truly knows his arrow speed or weight. Even fewer have actually checked their FOC, or even knows what the devil it is. Lots of those fellas that say they're shooting 300 fps are visibly upset when they actually do shoot through a chrony and find out their 300 fps (because that's the IBO speed for their bow) is really only 260 fps. Do they really need to be pushing the raw edge of arrow weight when they're hunting? I think not. So, I refuse to recommend they do anything other than what I do. I know my way would work for everyone. I know that light arrows have their limitations.