Just FYI, I don't have to justify a stinkin' thing! I've worked my way through hundreds of dollars worth of carbon arrows over the past 5 years, testing them with spine meters, measuring straightness and inside diameters, weighing them on grain scales, shooting them with field points and fixed blade broadheads and comparing my average group sizes with what I get with aluminum. Aluminum wins on every point except on the chronograph.

My final opinion is, ICS type carbon arrows SUCK. I will never recommend anyone use something unless I can say it's worked for me and I do not have anything good to say about ICS type carbon arrows.

Use what you will, fellas, but I'll give you some suggestions to help with carbons. Get a grain scale and a spine meter. Get at least 6 dozen raw shafts. If you really need to yield a dozen arrows, might have to get twelve dozen or more. Weigh each shaft and group them by weight first. Then test the spine, all the way around each shaft and match them according to the stiffest side of each shaft. Then you'll have them grouped by spine and weight. Hopefully you'll get a full dozen matched arrows without having to buy more. Take your culls, repackage them and sell them for new on Ebay. That's what a whole lot of those guys you see selling carbons on Ebay are doing.

Then, take your matched set of shafts and cut them to length, taking half off each end. Since straightness is REALLY bad at the ends, you get rid of the worst part of each shaft. Then go back to your spine tester and mark the stiffest side of each shaft so you can orient your fletching and nock the same way on each arrow. After you've done all those things, you might come out with a dozen decent arrows.

Or you could forget all the BS, make it easy on yourself and simply buy a dozen aluminums. That way you know you're getting consistent arrows.