If for some reason, you want an exact 3 or 4 degree "offset," print this protractor image onto a sheet of paper and cut it out along outside of image. You do not need to cut the center out.
1. Set both the FRONT and REAR adjustment of your jig at "0" (zero).
2. Set a shaft in the jig cradles.
4. Using a clamp without a fletch or vane in the clamp, set the clamp on the shaft.
5. Using a FINE TIPPED felt pen, draw a line on the shaft along the blade edge of the clap, end to end. For a RIGHT FLETCH, draw the line on shaft on the LEFT side of the clamp. For LEFT FLETCH, draw the line on the RIGHT side of the clamp
6. Remove the clamp and remove the shaft from the jig, BE CAREFUL not to erase your line.
7. Lay the shaft on a hard surface with the line you drew facing up.
8. Using your paper protractor, lay the edge of the bottom of the protractor on just along the line and scotch tape the protractor edge to your shaft. MAKE SURE the degree measurement are at about the point that the front of your fletch or vane will be.
9. Carefully wrap the paper protractor around your shaft until the degree marks that you want are lying against the shaft. Using the fine tipped marker, place a mark on the shaft at the degree measurement you want (each mark is 1 degree).
10. Put the marked shaft back in the jig with the line and degree measure facing up.
11. Put the clamp back on the shaft so that the clamp edge matches the line your first drew.
12. Lightly loosen the FRONT setting of the jig adjustment.
13. Turn the dial of the FRONT adjuster until the front of the clamp aligns with the degree mark you made.
14. Holding the adjuster know firmly in place, retighten. Watch that the adjuster does not move your clamp off your degree mark. It will sometimes occur.
15. Sometimes you may have to loosen the REAR adjuster to allow the FRONT to move. I usually do not have to.
16. Once the angle of your clamp is correct, firmly tighten the locking screw on each adjuster.
17. Fletch away! HOWEVER……!
Depending on the "Outside diameter" of your shaft, you may not be able to get the degree of offset you want. Small diameter shafts will not let you offset the fletch to the degree that you can on a larger diameter shaft.
Regardless of the degree of offset you would like to have, you will be limited to the degree that allows the clamped fletch to fully engage with the surface of your shaft. WATCH for the ends of your fletch being OFF the shaft surface. If they are, you will have to reduce the angle until your fletch makes FULL contact with the shaft surface.
If you just want the maximum offset your shafts size will allow, ignore "Steps 1 through 16" and use the following method. It is easier to set.
1. Set both adjusters on jig at "0" (zero). Leave the locking screws loose.
2. Set a bare shaft in the jig cradles.
3. Put a fletch or vane in a clamp at the measurement you are using for how far you want the REAR of your fletch to be from your nock tip.
4. Install the clamp. ELIMINATE DRAWING A LINE AND USING PROTRACTOR.
5. Now move your adjusters so that front of your fletch just leaves the surface of your shaft. Bring the front of your fletch back onto the shaft so that the rail (bottom) of the fletch or vane makes full contact with the shaft surface. To the RIGHT for RIGHT fletch. To the LEFT for LEFT fletch.
6. Now do the same with the REAR adjuster, moving your fletch (rear) to the left for RIGHT fletch. To the RIGHT for LEFT fletch.
7. Keep adjusting until the fletch ends are both making full contact with the shaft surface.
8. You will find that you probably cannot move the REAR of the fletch (angle) as much a you can the front.
9. When I offset, I leave the REAR adjuster at "0" and only move the front adjuster.
10. I have used the same "eyeing" method for HELICAL.
I will be surprised if you were to get a 4-degree offset unless you are using larger diameter shaft. Even a 24XX shaft is pushing it for a 4-degree offset. At least, that was my experience. I believe Bitz claims that you can get a 6 to 8 degree offset, No way!
