First thing is to make sure there is no fletching contact.Either by shooting a bare shaft(I actually like paper tuning with a bare shaft)or you can also use lipstick on your prongs to see if there is contact.



Next thing is to eliminate torque.Try different hand positions to see what the tear does.Regardless of the tear,you still need to use the grip that works best for you and your groups.You will most likely find that a grip that eliminates most of the torque will have better results with your groups.



Thirdly,a left tear for a left handed shooter indicates a STIFF shaft for a release and compound shooter.This is not set in stone but is what is suggested by Easton.If it is just a left tear and isn't high it is most likely torque or centershot.If it is high,you may have a contact problem.



It could also just be that your center shot is way off and needs to be adjusted with the rest.If you have to move centershot way out or in to get good paper tear.You need to find out why and fix the problem.A bow with the centershot set properly will shoot better,regardless of paper.This means you need to match your spine and centershot so that you get a good tear in paper if you want your field tips and broadheads to impact the same.


Some bows just don't tune well and this may be because of some type of problem,either with the design or some type of failure.Things like cam lean and grip design play a major role in this headache.



Whatever you do,don't just move the rest untill you get good paper tear.You may be patching the problem and your shooting will suffer.Find out why you have to move the rest.