First thing is to make sure there is no fletching contact.Either by shooting a bare shaft(I actually like paper tuning with a bare shaft)or you can also use lipstick on your prongs to see if there is contact.



Next thing is to eliminate torque.Try different hand positions to see what the tear does.Regardless of the tear,you still need to use the grip that works best for you and your groups.You will most likely find that a grip that eliminates most of the torque will have better results with your groups.



Thirdly,a left tear for a left handed shooter indicates a STIFF shaft for a release and compound shooter.This is not set in stone but is what is suggested by Easton.If it is just a left tear and isn't high it is most likely torque or centershot.If it is high,you may have a contact problem.



It could also just be that your center shot is way off and needs to be adjusted with the rest.If you have to move centershot way out or in to get good paper tear.You need to find out why and fix the problem.A bow with the centershot set properly will shoot better,regardless of paper.This means you need to match your spine and centershot so that you get a good tear in paper if you want your field tips and broadheads to impact the same.


Some bows just don't tune well and this may be because of some type of problem,either with the design or some type of failure.Things like cam lean and grip design play a major role in this headache.



Whatever you do,don't just move the rest untill you get good paper tear.You may be patching the problem and your shooting will suffer.Find out why you have to move the rest.

Bigbuck, it sounds like you have a arrow rest set-up problem to me. i can help you but i need to know shaft size, lenght tip weight, LBSand draw lenght.

I am shooting 62 lbs 27.5" arrows xx75 2213 with 100gr field points.
Last night I tried to center the rest. It was way off. When the rest is centered the vanes rub on the bow. When I move the rest out my paper tune goes to heck. Right now I have it set as close as can.

bigbuck270, when you start to tune a bow, you should start with it at center shot. If you have vane clearance problems, then you have to correct that first.

BigBuck, Bulldog1 here, I need to know what bow, fingers or release, based on what you told me, it's sounds like your arrows are too weak, a 2314 or 2312 will do the trick. Also you said you got fletching rub when you took your bow to center, unless your bow is older, that should'nt be happening. The thing that's bothering me is your arrows should'nt be that far off between field and mechanical heads let me know. Bulldog1

arrow spine is too weak for 62 lbs

Thanks for all the help. I ended up having two problems. 1. The fletching was hitting the riser. 2. The arrow spine was too weak for that poundage. I adjusted the rest and picked up some 2314s and it papertunes great. I just hope hitting a deer will be as easy as hitting paper at 10'.

Just a endnote.

Never assume that different heads will weigh the same and fly the same just because each states that they are the same weight. It is not uncommon to find that the weight of broadheads to be less or more than what the manufacturer states.

Configuration (design) of heads comes into play. The physics of flight on a fieldpoint is not the same as it is on most broadheads, regardless both weigh the same. That is why I do not try to get fieldpoints and broadheads to fly and group the same.

I think TFOX is trying to get me in trouble. Sure, just let that dangle out in front of me. It's so hard to let the opportunity go by without saying something that'll get me thrown in the brig. [:@]

Lipstick on my prong with a bare shaft, eh?
Sounds good, maybe I should try that.
Gee, I hope there isn't a clearence problem.

Sorry, I tried to hold back, but it's just not me.