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Old 04-21-2004 | 08:09 PM
  #9  
JOE PA
Nontypical Buck
 
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,398
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From: Eastern PA USA
Default RE: Bare shaft tuning

W A Shooter:

My usual tuning problem is a right tear (right handed shooter). I have had a few bows where moving a rest to the left straightened out the right tear. The tear I get can often be altered by my grip. I have lessened the right tear by putting a little side pressure with my left thumb on the riser, lightly gripping the bow, letting the bow grip make contact with the base of my thumb and using a loose grip. It just depends on the bow. To me, at least, some bows seem much tougher to get right. With a bow that has as much riser reflex as the Patriot, and an overdraw to boot, I doubt that I would be able to get the thing right no matter what. I had an MQ1 with a Muzzy Zero Effect rest on it that would shoot bare shafts nice and straight provided I was very careful with the grip, very careful to eliminate any torque on the string, and used a long heavy stabilizer. Otherwise, I had problems. The Pro 38 I mentioned shot best for me when the centershot was 1/16" left of center as measured from the cam/limb position. Maybe it was just me, but that position worked. I got great broadhead flight and accuracy out of the bow with only a Whisker Biscuit rest. I could even take the stabilizer off and it would shoot nearly the same sized groups and the same POI as with the stabilizer on. With the MQ, taking the stabilizer off meant 4" groups at 30 yds.[:'(] I don't really know what else to say. You could try backing off the draw weight and see if that makes a difference. If it were my bow, I would take off the overdraw, but then you wouldn't be able to shoot those aluminum arrows you have.
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