When paper tuning and you are getting tears that require moving string- nock or rest, always move the component opposite of nock tear. In most cases, if fletch/vane tear is up, move nock down. If tear is down, move nock up. If fletch/vane tear is left, move rest right. If fletch/vane tear is right, move rest left. In some cases, moving the string-nock and rest may require that you adjust to the same direction as the "tear."

However, do not misconstrue that I am saying that adjusting the position of the string nock and/or rest is all you need to do to solve any "tear" problem. Solving "tear" problems (arrow flight) may require an adjustment of one or several components, which includes arrow spine and your shooting form.

Additionally, there are some other adjustments that are rarely listed in the paper tuning troubleshooting steps that might correct a "tear" problem when the "standard" methods do not.

For example:

- I once was getting a "high tear," and nothing in the standard troubleshooting methods would cure the problem. I eventually tracked the problem to the tension setting of my rest (I use GFK Rover and Golden Premier) rests.

I had changed the prong group (prongs and shaft) on the rest to a newer style. Although I marked the setting of the prong group that I removed, the new group did not accept the same setting as the one I had removed. Consequently, the rest tension was too weak. Although weakening the tension of the rest is one method that can cure a nock-high tear, I discovered that that the rest was partially collapsing at full draw. When I fired, the down pressure (release shooter) caused the rest to fall, which caused the fletch and nock end of my shaft to smack the rest, which then kicked the nock end of my shaft up.

I cornered the problem when I discovered that the nock high tear only occurred when 10 yards from the paper, but disappeared at 21 yards. That led me to look for a contact problem that was minimal enough to allow the arrow fletch to stabilize the shaft when given enough distance to do so.

- On another occasion, I decided to experiment with a "Martin" prong rest that came on both of 2 new Martin bows I purchased. This particular rest had prongs that flexed independent of each other. I was getting right/left tears and none of the standard trouble shooting methods would cure the problem.

I finally boiled the possible causes down to being a contact problem, and also detected that a side pressure on the shaft could be intermittently occurring, but should not have (side pressure) being I was shooting with a release and a center-shot rest.

What I discovered was that the tension on the left prong of the Martin rest was much weaker than the right prong. The left prong would flex downward before the right prong could react. This caused my shaft to roll off the right prong, putting most of the down pressure on the left prong. This phenomenon then caused the right prong to ride against the side of my shaft, creating a quasi-pressure button affect, and allowed the right fletch to clip the right prong. Put my trustworthy GFK on and the problem was solved.

- Another time I was having right-left tear problems when shooting a Pro series Martin "Firecat." I was adjusting right/left alignment of the rest to the point that the "centering" of the rest was too far left and then too far right. Everything pointed to a torque problem. However, I rarely torque. In fact, I shoot with such a loose grip, I have had bows jump out of my hand.

I eventually tracked the cause to the custom grip on the bow. The grip (wood) was larger than I prefer, and had a large "palm swell." Regardless that I was not torquing the bow, the design of the grip caused a natural torquing when I drew the bow. I resized and reshaped the grip, and the problem was cured.