While I'm here I might as well tell you other things you need to know about your M1.

How to strip it: Here's a site that shows you how to get the rifle apart- I would suggest leaving the handguards alone though, they don't need to be removed. http://www.surplusrifle.com/garand/d...mble/index.asp
Unfortunately, the site doesn't show you how to disassemble the bolt and the trigger group, which are both somewhat difficult the first time around.
If you go to www.odcmp.com they have a book called "read this first" which tells you how to do this. Give them a call and see if they will sell you one (costs something like $3 iirc) if they don't because you aren't qualified, send me and email, and I'll send you mine.

make sure the firing pin is clean- the firing pin is freefloating and will actually ding the primer when the bolt closes- you don't want it gunked up or it could slamfire.

On the subject of slamfiring- if you are going to reload- seat the primers below flush with the base of the case. Its best to use CCI-34 milspec primers, but I use winchesters without a problem.

Keep the chamber clean- the M1 combo tool has a brush for this, or get yourself a .45 pistol brush to clean the chamber with.

The M1 is one of the few rifles that needs to be lubed with GREASE. The locking lugs and locking lug recesses, oprod track, bolt raceway, and where the oprod rubs on the barrel need to be greased. You should also grease the other moving parts in the receiver. The only part in the trigger group that needs to be greased is the top of the hammer where the bolt runs across it. You can get military grease pots off ebay for probably $.50 a piece and they fit into the buttstock of the rifle. I use MILITECH-1 grease which I got for a free sample from their website. I've also used a grease made by Browning that comes in a syringe, but it doesn't seem to hold up as well. In a pinch, ball bearing grease will work also.

The gas piston will accumulate carbon deposits, you will want to scrape these off occasionally as they can flake off and cause wear and scoring in your gas cylinder. Use an old penny (copper penny not a newer zinc penny) to scrape the crud off. Use a large brush to clean the gas cylinder- do not lube the inside of it- it will cause more carbon to accumulate- just put a little grease on the piston and wipe it dry.

Use a muzzle protector when cleaning the barrel. Most M1 barrels wear out from improper cleaning rather than being shot out.

Sights- each click = 1 MOA. To zero your elevation at 100 yards, click the sight all the way down then click it up 10 clicks- 100 yard zero is different on each rifle but usually falls between 8 and 12 clicks. Go up 2 clicks from there for 200 yards, and up 3 more for 300 yards.

Take a look at your right thumb and notice how its not swollen, bleeding, or in great pain. To keep it that way, keep it out of the receiver unless the edge of your hand is holding the bolt back- that bolt flies forward really fast and will eat your thumb if you let it.

There's probably alot more that I missed, but this should get you pointed down the right parth.