I've shot exclusively fingers for 24 years. The last 10 years of which have been with a compound.
In that time I've developed a very smooth finger release. It takes more practice, but I wouldn't switch to a mech release aid unless I planned on competing somewhere other than locally. I've tried it on a friend's bow, and even set up another friend's bow for shooting with one, but I'll take fingers everytime.

I'll never argue that you can't get more precise groups and life-saver-busting accuracy from a mech release, but they're not for me. I love 'feeling' the release of the string. It also doesn't hurt that I can get shots off quicker because I just draw and shoot. I don't have to hook up the release to the string, and then after I'm at full draw, shift my grip to a firing position. I also like having both hands free if I need them. Once you're hooked up to the bow, you're handcuffed, and the fastest way to move your hands is to drop the bow and risk damaging it or cutting yourself on a broadhead.

Not to mention there is just one more peice of equipment to fall victim to Murphy's law. I'd eventually either leave it in the truck, it would fail or freeze at a critical time, or it would misfire on me and scare away the best deer of the season.

If you set up your bow for finger shooting like ARTHUR P suggests above, assuming your bow has enough length between axles for finger shooting, and practice with it, you just might come to like it better for hunting. Give it a chance. Get the proper setup and spend some time with it.

TIP:
Since finger shooting all but requires a flipper rest, you may want to consider feathers instead of vanes. I know not many people are in favor of doing anything that sacrifices FPS, but I feel that with a finger setup, it's easier to solve rest-clearence problems with feathers, and your setup will gain forgiveness when you execute a less than perfect release, which WILL happen. You'll still mess it up once in a while, no matter how long you've been shooting.

ANOTHER TIP:
When paper tuning with it, you'll want to shoot several arrows between adjustments. This is to make sure that the flight error you're seeing on the paper is really from the equipment, not you. If you're not getting exactly the same tear every time, you're not ready to paper tune yet. You can make some gross adjustments, but spend some more time practicing your shooting form and developing a smooth, consistent finger release before attempting any fine tweeking. Otherwise, you can drive yourself nuts chasing ghosts.

Sorry about writing a book -I don't see topics like this to often and I wanted to toss in my 2 cents..

Good luck!