If you want to be completely dry there is another option.

http://www.sandstromproducts.com/pdfs/e728.pdf

I learned of this company when I attended a Course entitled Corrosion Control and Prevention of Material Deterrioration presented at Rock Island Arsenal 30 years ago.

Dry film lubricant is the coating put on lots of M16 parts that does extremely well in prevention of corrosion and is very effective as a lubricant as well.

I don't get the aerosol, I prefer getting it by the pint and after mixing well I apply it with a model makers brush so you can put it right where you want it and there is no drips etc.

It was developed during Nam because the M16s were showing signs of deterrioration in the field and more and more parts have it called for on the drawings.

To give an idea of how tenacious this lubricant is I have a bush hog mower for my tractor I got new maybe five years back. Even though I greased the tail wheel prior to every use the 1" bolt axle was shot. The design of this one has rear discharge and the tail wheel is constantly being bombarded by sand, dirt, debris.

It even took out the bearings in the wheel. I got a new 1" grade 8 bolt and made new bushings out of steel stock I had on hand and instead of greasing it I coated the inside of the bushings with 27A and the axle and assembled it. I found I could run the bush hog 8 hours with no problem with one application.

Then they came out with 28A and I got some of it and I can run the bush hog about 11 to 12 hours. Been running this about four years now. Axle bolt is fine. I don't ever plan on going back to grease.

Now about every other time I used it for a long period I just tack up the back, remove the bolt and repaint the surfaces with it and let it dry and put it back together.