ORIGINAL: burniegoeasily
ORIGINAL: bigcountry
ORIGINAL: Kanga
I ended up buying acetone. I don't want to do all this work mating up my bamboo to my IPE and have it come apart.
Mark
Good move, I do know that turps is oil based so you would actually be putting oil back into the wood.
Russ, why can't you move closer so I can borrow your heat box and use URAC instead of TBIII.
I know building a heat box is a quick thing. I feel like all I do is build tools so I can build bows. I make a tiller stick, I make a tiller tree, I make a form. Now I need a heat box.[:-]
Aceton all the way. By the way, why would you want to use Urac 185 over titebond III. Once I used titebond III, I will never use Urach 185 agian. Epoxy is way more messy than titebond, and Ive had better results with it as well. All my wood to wood applications get titebond over urac.
Make a heat box. Real easy to do. You can make a real cheap one with foam insulation and three lights. Just tape the insulation into a box, big enough to place your form in. Put your lights on the bottom and you got it. Looks like a big foam cooler. If you need it hotter, place a blanket over it. If you need it cooler, crack the top. Ive made a complete oven, this way, under 20 bucks. Ive also made them with stove pipe and a heat gun. Ive even baked bows in a car with the windows up, and parked in the sun on a hot day. Get creative and you can figure out some easy ways to bake a bow.
Well, I only need the heat box for Epoxy glue ups. I am just having some trouble getting real good mating with things. And know that TBIII isn't gap filling at all.
Other than that, I figured a heat box would be handy for making hickory bows and keeping em dry. Drying out my boo. Other than that, not sure if need it.