Is paper tuning the answer??
10-08-2008, 10:08 AM
#11
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Southern MD
Posts: 2,520
RE: Is paper tuning the answer??
ORIGINAL: bigcountry
If your a hunter, broadhead tune. Paper tune is only 15% or less of the answer. I paper,bareshaft, walkback, and bh tune. When you get teh same answer for all three, you know your onto something. When something doesn't smell right, like walkback doesn'nt line with Bareshaft, then you investigate that.
But in a pinch, shoot some BH's and some field points and adjust rest/poundage accordingly.
If your a hunter, broadhead tune. Paper tune is only 15% or less of the answer. I paper,bareshaft, walkback, and bh tune. When you get teh same answer for all three, you know your onto something. When something doesn't smell right, like walkback doesn'nt line with Bareshaft, then you investigate that.
But in a pinch, shoot some BH's and some field points and adjust rest/poundage accordingly.
One thing about paper tuning I would like to add: I have never found it to be as difficult as some have said it is and I also do not think it is any more affected by outside forces (hand torque, poor shooting form, etc.) than any other form of tuning would be affected. When shooting through paper I think you can actually concentrate on form and a relaxed shot moreso than when you have to add "aiming" at a target also. Try paper tuning with your eyes closed and just concentrate on a good shot and you will get good, reliable results in the paper. When making adjustments to correct the tear just make small corrections almost as if you were making adjustments to the rest for a 40yd shot instead of a 15yd shot. After paper tuning I usually only have to make a small adjustment during bareshafting and then even BH's shoot well.
10-08-2008, 11:56 AM
#12
Typical Buck
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: (39.02N -95.68W)
Posts: 533
RE: Is paper tuning the answer??
ORIGINAL: SwampCollie
I'm with you there snood. Forgive me, because I suppose that post of mine seems a big arguementitive, and I didn't mean it to be that way. The issue though is that it is fairly rare to find a spec tiller heigth listed anywhere... even in dealer spec books... you'll have brace height and axel to axel. Having an even tiller isn't always the answer either.. but I do see where you are coming from... having an even tiller is certainly a good and fair square one to build from.
If you don't mind... I'd love to know exactly how you go about paper tuning? Since it has obviously worked for you in the past, I'd like to know what distances you shoot from and so forth? I think it'd be a good FYI for everyone else too.
ORIGINAL: Snood Slapper
SwampCollie, I'm not sure if you were replying to the original poster's question, or to me (confused as you have me quoted). But, as I said, paper tuning only to get you close; and it is good for that, and only that, IMO. But it is not totally invaluable. Usually those who get frustrated with it don't understand what dynamics are going on, and therefore, don't do it properly. It behooves us to remember that the average Joe has not had 8 years experience as a bow tech (and I assume the OP is in that boat as a novice) and eye-balling is generally going to give them just as much aggravation; maybe even more. That is why I recommended walk back tuning as the final method after all else is done. You could certainly through all the above out and go directly to walk back tuning and probably do just as well as long as all your specs/measurements are correct(ed). Tiller and BH are extremely important in this instance since, again I am assuming, that this string was installed by a shop person that does not know what they are doing since there are no twists in it. If you have a modern bow and bow string, you are going to have twists in the string just for pure longevity of that string.
SwampCollie, I'm not sure if you were replying to the original poster's question, or to me (confused as you have me quoted). But, as I said, paper tuning only to get you close; and it is good for that, and only that, IMO. But it is not totally invaluable. Usually those who get frustrated with it don't understand what dynamics are going on, and therefore, don't do it properly. It behooves us to remember that the average Joe has not had 8 years experience as a bow tech (and I assume the OP is in that boat as a novice) and eye-balling is generally going to give them just as much aggravation; maybe even more. That is why I recommended walk back tuning as the final method after all else is done. You could certainly through all the above out and go directly to walk back tuning and probably do just as well as long as all your specs/measurements are correct(ed). Tiller and BH are extremely important in this instance since, again I am assuming, that this string was installed by a shop person that does not know what they are doing since there are no twists in it. If you have a modern bow and bow string, you are going to have twists in the string just for pure longevity of that string.
If you don't mind... I'd love to know exactly how you go about paper tuning? Since it has obviously worked for you in the past, I'd like to know what distances you shoot from and so forth? I think it'd be a good FYI for everyone else too.
Suffice it to say, I basically use the Easton Guide for paper tuning with all types of variations and I neither think that I have the time, or room, to go into all the detail of what I do. Again, the paper tuning is only a basic, very quick thing I do; it is only a very small part of it, but still has value in my opinion. Like brucelanthier,I'll throw in doing it with my eyes closed, bareshafted, bareshafted with my eyes closed, etc. I'll also creep tune, group tune, and walk back tune. Tune, tune, tune. Sounds like a lot, but, as I said, I find it all goes very, very quickly if I first start with a "square bow", a tuned arrow (a completely other thread), and a brief paper tune.
