ORIGINAL: Sooner State Hunter
Disclaimer: I'm not a "Supertuner" or a "Guru", just a guy who is striving for perfection in my equipment. Please read and feel free to comment.
There is a sticky on AT about"Broadhead Tuning" in the bowhunting forum that gets alot of attention.Check it outif you wish to learn all the details, but this is it in a nutshell: you move your rest and nock until the POIof bothbroadheads and fieldpoints is the same and you then have yourself a finely tuned hunting bow. The author says this method replaces "Walkback" and "Paper Tuning".............
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THIS is not true!!!!!!!!
Here's the link for those who wish to read it. http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=539460 It's been viewed nearly 27,000 times, and it a very good synopsis for a beginner to use to try to get BH's and FP's shooting together. I've referred many people to it, including some here.
Sooner, I highly recommend that thread, but I only recommend someone use it after they've set their bow up, adjusted nock point to near level, and walk-back tuned their bow. It's exactly how I tweak my stuff, and I have 3 bows sticking FP's and BH's real close out to 40yds, 2 of them and 48yds. the third. I also recommend doing this even for a guy intending on shooting Mechanicals, because after doing it, it helps get your bow FINE-tuned.
ORIGINAL: im-ocd
IMO...Paper tuned for a repeatable bullet tearIS tuned.
If selected broadheads don't fly same POI as field points from a paper tuned bow, try different heads.
Not exactly, read what Robin wrote. I won't even put an arrow through a paper tuner. I can through a set-up together, eyeball stuff, and go shoot it and be close, then do a walkback to set the center-rest, and through the BH's on to fine tune. If I have 3 different BH's that will shoot right with my FP's, there's no reason to think I need to tune any further. Trying different heads ain't he solution, a different more effective tuning method IS.