Disclaimer: I'm not a "Supertuner" or a "Guru", just a guy who is striving for perfection in my equipment. Please read and feel free to comment.

There is a sticky on AT about"Broadhead Tuning" in the bowhunting forum that gets alot of attention.Check it outif you wish to learn all the details, but this is it in a nutshell: you move your rest and nock until the POIof bothbroadheads and fieldpoints is the same and you then have yourself a finely tuned hunting bow. The author says this method replaces "Walkback" and "Paper Tuning".

I decided to try it out a month ago and ended up with my rest alot further away from the riser than it had been when I walked-back tuned the bow. My FP's and BH's were hitting the same but my groups were alot "looser" than normal. I knew my arrows were somewhat stiff according the OT2 program so perhaps that was the reason.

Our season starts Oct. 1 so I kept thinking "Sooner, it's too late to change anything, just keep it like it is b/c afterall, your bh's and fp's are hitting the same and that's all that matters".

Last week, I got fed up and decided to experiment. I pulled out the paper tuner, went over all my specs and noticed my idler wheel lean wasn't exactly like it should be. I tweeked this and that until I had perfect bullet holes thru paper. This led me to adjusting my rest considerably, actually very close to where it had been withwalkback tuning.

Guess what? FP's and BH's hit the same at all distances and my groups are tight again. That leads me to the conclusion that in many cases people choose "easier" methods that lead them to believe they a tuned bow. I believe if it's tuned properly, it should shoot good (maybe not perfect) thru paper, pass walkback tuning criteria and shoot fp's and bh's the same. The way I see it, it's a system of a check and balances.

I slept like a baby Friday night, peace of mind is a good thing ...