I am assuming you mean a TC Encore or a H&R Handi. When sizing for this I first want to know the gap between the breech face and the barrel. Mike Bellm does a good job explaining proper die set up.

When I get new brass I sort it by weight, and by the thickness of the brass in the neck. I like all my brass to weigh within .3 of a grain.After I have weighed my brass and sorted by weight, I then check the thickness and run out of the brass in the neck. If this measurement is less than .002 then I keep it. It it is .002 or larger then I discard the brass. This small amount of difference(in the thickness of the neck) makes neck turning very easy. There is very little, if any brass to take off.

I like the way you made your trimmer mandrel. Nice job!!

The expander ball is what brings your neck back up to caliber size after you have sized the neck. I do not like them because the expander ball has a (drastic) effect on the shoulder(because it is unsupported) as it is pulling and expanding the neck.

The Sinclair neck mandrel is a mandrel(similar to your neck turning mandrel) that sizes the inside of the neck in a separate step. I lube the mandrel, and only size clean brass.

I load for several TC Encore cartridges. I normally only neck size, I do not buy into the bump the shoulder theory. But when I do want to bump the shouder I just do it with a FL sizerdie. I just have tomake sure I adjust it properly. Remember your case for the break open action is going to be longer because of the gap I spoke of earlier. So it is not so much bumping the shoulder as it is shortening the case(it just happens to be that bumping the shoulder is the easiest way to shorten the case). Remember some cases do not headspace off the shoulder.

You really should neck turn your brass before you shoot it.

Below is a 6.5X284 I am getting tuned in pretty good. Tom.