Semisane
I took the trip over to your suggested post, I do not know how I might have mssed that whole thread but I did, but your picture and measurements really makes me think about some other ideas....
This statement in this post along with the picture from the previous post have put me down this road that I am about to suggest...
The gun in question is a Lyman Mustang with a loose bore.
And maybe I wrong,
cdad, proved that can happen... I am wondering if your bore is not along the lines of the old Knight or todays White's bore. Your pictures suggest this to me. If you look at the crush rib sabots and the MMP sabots you will notice a different type of construction in the bases. MMP use to have the same smooth cup but with the advent of the 150 grain charge the cup would not always handle the heat & pressure so with the stairstep cup the sabot becomes stronger and will hold those 150 grain loads but it will not expand as far as the smooth cup. Hence MMP has gone to the HPH-24 a thinner sabot to get down todays skinnery bores, but yet they still produce the HPH-12 for, in your words, loose bores, such as the older Knights or my White.
As a thought, I am throwing this out to you, the other day I was shooting the White @ 200 yards, with the 250 grain Gold Dot - I did ok @ 200 with the 250's, but when I went to the10mm 200 grain XTP @ 200 I through them all over the place. Iniatially, and @ 100 yards, it appeared that the White would shoot the 200's just fine even though the sabot went down abit to easy. Wolfhound had told me before that he could not get the 200's to perfrom from hisKnights - and now I have to agree with him from theWhite - they are good to a 100, but after that they become questionable. I know it is a sabot problem for that gun which has a loose bore.
Have you ever tried an HPH-12 in your Mustang? or better yet have you ever slugged your barrel to find out what size it might be? You really have me curius now. I just assumed
new gun the barrel bore would be on the slim side, and would need 24's.
I would really give a 12 a try and if it is to thick then go to regular Harvesters which are a tad thicked than "crush ribs". But it really believe it does come down to bearing surface.
The thread you sent me to...
Different Sabots Can Change Your Groups is so TRUE...
I know I am in the minority but I still say 250 area for deer and 300 for elk - yet as someone pointed out - if you are shooting longer ranges where the bullet slows down shoot 300's - they do fly better than 250's