ijimmy: Len does not post here anymore, after his friend, Davidmil, got banned. He posts over on ArcheryTalk.com some times. I would go over there and PM or just ask over there, though very few on any forums are posting much on the new Dartons. You could also ask Matt/PA or someone who is up on the Bowtech binaries, as they are very close in design. As I understand the system, you could shorten the draw length by twisting up the string to tighten it. That would shorten draw and lower draw weight, just like any 2 cam bow. With the draw stop modules now being used, the danger of inequal cable tightness and possible lockup at full draw should no longer be a problem, but to just shorten the draw, you should not have to touch the cables, just the string. You should confirm this with someone. Maybe giblet has info on the system too. Sorry to post anything without being a shop tech, but seeing all the helpful advice you got in the first response, I wanted to try to give you some positives to consider.

BTW, the draw you describe sounds just like you get with a #3 mod. on the CPS/Champion system. With a 28" draw, you probably never felt it. I was very disappointed when I got a Darton Avalanche after having the Tundra for a while. The draw was just a** backwards, really nasty peak right before letoff. The Champion ETS #3 mod is similar, but not as bad, only increasing about 2# in the last few inches where the Darton was 3-4. I have played around a lot with my Champions, which are basically worth squat now that the company is kaput. You can increase or decrease draw weight by almost 5# going from A to D on the cams and, of course, the draw length changes too. This is basically the same as lengthening and shortening the string. Should have the same effect on the new cams, they just have a different system to keep them in synch.