Len, since we're talking about cam timing and such, I recently bought an '03 Patriot Dually (used) supposedly less than 50 shots through it and honestly from the looks of everything he's probably telling the truth. Anyway, when I first got it, the cams were definitely out of synch as there was definitely 2 "bumps" and felt like it had 2 valleys. Anyway, I took it to a local pro shop and even though I can't stand the guy's attitude, he's a hell of a bow mechanic. I asked him to tune it for me and get it paper tuned. Wel, I went and picked it up Tuesday and e told me that he couldn't get it to bullet hole when the cams were perfectly synchronized by his darw force mapper so he had to tune it with the limbs? I.E. the bottom limb is backed out about 3/4 of a turn more than the top one. I brought it home and it shot great.

Then here's where I messed up. I bought the bow with 29" modules on it but I shoot a 30" draw. When I got home, I swapped the modules out. Big mistake. My nock point and peep sight and timing were all out of whack again. I reset the nock point and peep sight and started working on the cams by twisting the cables. I got them to where they "feel" right and go out and begin shooting and such. After about 50 shots, I can feel the double bump coming back into the cams, so I go back in and have to let 3 twists out of the top to get ot to feel right again, but now my draw length feels too long. Did I do something wrong and does adding or removing twists in the cables affect draw length? I guess I'm gonna have to go drop another $50 to get it retuned now. [&o]One of WWAG's bowmender presses is looking beter & better all the time. I'm tired of this Bowmaster.