This tuning thing comes up a lot, and it should since it is so important to good arrow flight, tight groups, broadhead consistency, and penetration in animals.

Paper is a rough tune (and you must check it at several distances for it to be of any use at all), bareshaft tuning gets you much much better, and then there are some other things worth doing too, like broadhead tuning if you hunt.

I'm a big proponent of bareshaft tuning, as is Paul. Sorry to seeyou had trouble buddy. He explains it well, and often. Check recent posts of his or look for tuning topics in the last few pages of Technical. Now, to be clear, I'm not talking about just the 'bareshaft tuning' where you shoot at very close range to seeif thearrow is leaving the bow at an angle.

I'm talking aboutshooting groups of fletched an unfletchedshaftsat several distances out past your max hunting range. You then compare the distance between the two groups. Make adjustments, and then do it again until the groups of fletched and unfletched shafts are superimposed on each other-meaning that they are centered at the same spot.

This can tell you WAY WAY more about what your arrows are doing in the air than paper,and the end result is amazing. When you get it dialed in, there is no wobble, kick, corckscrew, or anything in your arrow's path except a bit of drop. It's beautiful when you get it. Check it out, and see for yourself.

-Bulz