I've used it on two .30-06 rifles and got mixed results. One rifle was a Ruger M77 MkII that never, ever shot worth a darn, despite numerous efforts such as bedding, trigger job, etc. I bought that one new in 2001 and finally dumped it last year. TYhe Tubbs bulets helped somewhat but not enough to make the gun a decent shooter.

The other rifle I used them in is a Remington 700 BDL that I bought new last year. It shot respectably out of the box but fouled quickly and was a bugger to clean. After the Tubbs bullets the groups tightened up a bit, it was much easier to clean and does not foul so quickly. I used the lightest charge of IMR 4064 that the Hornady manual specified for this bullet weight. I am very happy with the results I got here and I really like this rifle now.

These bullets are not for use in custom or match barrels; they do their best work on the average factory barrel or a barrel with some erosion in the throat area. I would not hesitate to use them again on another new run-of-the-mill rifle, but before using it on yours you should remember that you are in fact running mildly abrasive bullets through your bore, and you are taking some material off when doing so. There ain't no going back if you mess up so think about this. You definitely want to use the lightest charge of the fastest burning powder your loading manual specifies. The instructions spell all this out.

That Chuck Hawks article is what got me interested in the Tubb bullets. I would not expect that everyone is going to get a 40% reduction in group size. My groups shrunk from just over an inch to just under an inch at 100 yards. This small a change could be a statistical fluke, and could just as easily be impacted by variations in wind, temperature, humidity and many other factors unrelated to the condition of the bore. I'm pretty careful about my reloads but I don't load for match accuracy, I load for hunting accuracy, weighing every powder charge but NOT weighing every bullet.

Caveat emptor.