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New to archery...bow sight?

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Old 08-15-2013, 04:49 PM
  #21  
Boone & Crockett
 
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Originally Posted by Jbergy
If you shoot on flat ground it doesn't matter that much that your bow is level. The third axis level helps in angled shots. Yeah if you have perfect form then I guess you don't need it, but I get customers that are good shots but can't shoot without a level because they may have some sort of physical restraint the makes it to weather or not they have perfect form. It's beyond their control, so they need the level. Therefore the third axis set up works.
JB - I don't want to argue nor belabor the issue. But it seems that your post above is a contradiction. Please read and hear me out. You say that a couple of your customers are good shot but for one reason or another they cannot have good form. I don't disagree with you but not having good form and needing a level, to me, translates into somehow manipulating the bow to center the bubble. The only way to do this is through the gripping of the bow. Now unless this is done exactly the same way each and every time the torque on the bow necessary to level the bow is going to affect accuracy. There is simply no way around that.
Two immediate cases come to mind. The first is my recent test which showed that my group size increased with just minor torqueing to level the bow. The second is with my daughter-in-law who just started shooting this year under my tutelage. She started out shooting well but because she was in the muscle development stage it took some effort to come to full draw. It wasn't until she 'learned' what muscles to use and to relax her bow arm and grip (after many reminders) that she started to hit bulls consistently and also busting off vanes.
As for shooting uphill and down - this causes no effect either if good form is used. When you do either, you must maintain the "triangle" of anchor, peep, and peep-to-eye distance. The only way to do this is by bending at the hips and not just raising or lowering the bow to aim at your target. The only effect caused by shooting other than level is the effect of gravity on the arrow. In either case the line of sight distance to the target will be shorter than that same line of sight on the level. This is why you will hit high if you don't adjust for this difference. And is why a range finder with automatic angle/distance calculation is a must for those who shoot fairly long distance in undulating terrain.
I don't believe I know everything about archery because I am still picking up things. But I've been at this game a long, long time and I have learned quite a bit. Trust me, don't fall into the gimmicks that come and go. Stick with the tried and true ideas and keep it simple (and fun).

Last edited by bronko22000; 08-15-2013 at 05:13 PM.
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Old 12-17-2014, 04:00 PM
  #22  
Nontypical Buck
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
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The IQ Retina Micro Bowsight is available with either 3, 5 or 7 pin set up. Before I purchased mine (a few weeks ago) I did a lot of research and viewed several on line videos. As of now, I give this bowsight the highest score over any bowsights on the market. I admit it is more expensive, but physically viewing it along side several other bow sights, which were good brand names several years back and are still on the market, the technology in the IQ leaves the others in the dust. The fibre optics are well protected. If one wishes to purchase the sight lite, it screws in underneath near the right hand side for a right hand bow. In this area it is more protected than sticking out at an angle like these lights do on other bow sights. There is a very slim chance of hooking branches etc. in this position. As the lite is turned on, the farther one turns it, the brighter it lights up the pins due to a rheostat system. The lite uses three small stacked batteries similar in size to a hearing aid battery. Doing a cross reference search for that battery number there are numerous brands of batteries on the market that inter change. The light shines on to the end of the enclosed fibre optics, which then travels to light up the ends of the site pins, not shining on the pins as other sight systems do. This system is very easy to install and set up. At the top of the sight, there is a light gathering system, if not using the sight lite. On the main frame there is a dual set of mounting holes which allows one to position the sight farther forward. There is a windage and elevation adjustments using a half wing nut which can also be loosened or snugged up with enclosed allen wrenches. Once properly installed, individual sight pins can be raised or lowered for required spacing. After you have grouped your arrows to your satisfaction (they recommend 20 yards) then and only then due you adjust your Retina Lock (the small target near the top of the bow sight). The purpose of the Retina Lock target is to show if you are torquing the bow when you go to shoot. When properly set, the black dot will show in the center of the target when you are at full draw. There is also a level indicator at the bottom of the sight.
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Old 12-17-2014, 04:07 PM
  #23  
Nontypical Buck
 
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A suggestion to prevent torqueing your bow: when you come to full draw, loosen your grip on your bow so it sits properly in your hand. Make sure you have a wrist sling installed or you may accidently drop the bow after releasing your arrow.
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