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Help diagnosing arrow flight problem. What am I missing.

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Help diagnosing arrow flight problem. What am I missing.

Old 12-14-2014, 07:12 PM
  #1  
Fork Horn
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Default Help diagnosing arrow flight problem. What am I missing.

Hello- any help on the following would be appreciated:
I am having to reset my bow after changing cams and limbs:
set up-
z7 magnum 29″ draw 70 lb. qad ultra rest.
Shooting maxima red 350 and tried maxima hunter 450 as well
center shot set at 13/16 and turned yokes to get good tear in paper. Elevation tear is good as well. ( this is the same setting I had before issues. )
i am shooting Xís at 20 yds with field tips and broad heads. As I back up to 30 and 40 I am getting consistent right flight. Elevation is good but arrow goes further right the further away I get.

Im im not ruling out human error as I have been shooting my back up bow since early november and it has a different t grip. But the consistancy at 20 yds and the consistent right flight has me thinking Somthing else may be going on.

So far I have tried moving rest in small increments from 11/16 to 13/16 adding and removing twists on the yoke.
I have an ever so slightly over rotated cam but the bow has always liked that. I just decreased my draw to 29″.

Not it sure what eels to do. Any advice is much appreciated.

Thanks in advance
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Old 12-14-2014, 09:28 PM
  #2  
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Are you holding your head the same?

Sometimes as the shot gets longer your head wants to turn further left to see the target clearer pushing your string left and causing the shot to be off to the right.
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Old 12-16-2014, 07:23 AM
  #3  
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Sounds like you're out of centershot. I'd venture that you'd see a very slight left impact at 10yrds.

You should be setting your yokes to balance your ATA even on both sides, then leave it alone. Then you determine your rest centershot based on THAT string travel. Changing your rest AND your yokes is spinning your wheels. You should ONLY change your yokes if your bow is way out of centershot and you can't tune your rest properly. In general, balancing the ATA on both sides will bring it back into alignment as close as anything. Once it's there, leave it alone! The goal here is to have your string travel in a plane that bisects the bow. Jacking with that after the fact is just screwing yourself up and causing your "walkback issues". Once the string is traveling properly, then your goal is to simply find the rest position that puts the rest in that plane. Then the sight as well.

Granted, there's a little bit of "wiggle" in that, since your limbs torque ever so slightly when drawn due to the cable guard, so the string travel is actually angled a little bit towards your bow as it fires (from left to right for a right handed shooter), but there's nothing we can do about that.

So a quick check can be this: fix the bow so the string is vertical and look from the back of the bow. Line the string up with the center of the rest. The sight dots SHOULD line up either right under the string, or very slightly to the right of the string (accounting for that limb torque when fired). I'd venture that yours is to the left. Longer brace heights hide this better, but short braces give it away pretty easy.

(NOTE: Some folks believe in setting the yokes such that the ATA is even when drawn rather when at rest. Take your pick which you believe in. You'll have limb torque and cam lean at one end or the other no matter what - either they'll lean towards you when drawn and be square at rest, or be square when drawn and be leaned away from you at rest, so the nock will always move left to right ever so slightly for a right handed shooter. It's easier to set them even at rest, because the other way requires a draw board that a lot of guys don't have. Either way, set the yokes and leave them alone).
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Old 12-20-2014, 01:52 PM
  #4  
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Is it just the broadheads or both field tips and broadheads?
If shooting a dual cam bow are your cams timed?
Are your arrows cut straight and squared off at the end?
You could just be punching the trigger and having target panic.
Try shooting with back tension.
If you shoot 100gr try 125 see what happens.
I am thinking though something isn't tuned right and if it just the broadheads put them on and arrow spinner to make sure your arrows are straight and the broadheads are straight. You much be holding the bow fine because you are grouping your arrows.
Try shooting your bow through paper again. I had the same problem this year a few weeks after I paper tuned my bow and I guess I pumped something or didn't have something tight enough because my rest was moved and my arrows kept doing the same as your but to the left.

Last edited by Brandon_SPC; 12-20-2014 at 01:55 PM.
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Old 12-21-2014, 03:53 PM
  #5  
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Nothing wrong with the advice given above but it may be something even more simple than what the others are saying. Are you holding your bow vertical during the shot. If your consistent with your bow cant your POI will also be consistent. This canting will cause your arrows to fly consistently to one side getting farther from center the further back you go.
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Old 12-22-2014, 06:06 AM
  #6  
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Google "walkback tuning bow" or something of that kind and I'm sure you will find the solution to your problem. Bronco has a point as well, and if that's your problem, then luckily it's a very simple issue to fix.

Any bow sight can be made to shoot POI=POA at one range, and even be incredibly accurate, but if your tuning isn't right, then you have "crossing lines" issues (line of sight vs. arrow flight makes an "X") such that at closer ranges, you'd hit left, at long ranges, you'd hit right. Measuring your centershot doesn't do you any good if the plane of your string travel doesn't cross through "13/16in centershot," measuring only gets you close for a starting point. If you "walkback tune" your bow, or basically tune as I described in my first post, you'll find that you eliminate that misalignment between line of sight and line of flight.

Shooting improperly cut arrows, improperly timed cams, improperly spined shafts, improper point weights etc will diminish accuracy, but seldom will it create a regular drifting issue like what you've described - especially if you have an ideal tear on paper tuning.

It's not that complicated.

Last edited by Nomercy448; 12-22-2014 at 06:13 AM.
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