I've read that it takes around 6 months to start changing the pH. But I've also read that it works alot faster than that. Which one is the truth? Also how long does it last?

Think of it like starting a fire under a pot of cold water. It takes time for the water to heat up and then it takes time for the water to cool off after the fire goes out. The lime starts to react as soon as you add it but it doesn't have it's greatest effect for some time after.

Dan O.

The pelleted type is a lot more expensive than the powder lime.

Lime also needs moisture, but not a downpour. A good soaking rain to imbed it into the soil and start it to blend with the soil. Lime does not dissolve easy which is why it takes so long. Pelletized lime will work in faster, but even then takes a while. Putting it on now will give it a chance to help plots this coming spring. The finer grinds work in faster. Farmers where I used to live would put on a mix of fine and coarse lime, as they only had to relime every 5-7 years. But here I'm talking about big fields and truckloads of lime. This is one reason you have to plan ahead when making plots.

Russ

I put pelletized lime on my plots early last summer. 640#'s to be exact. It was less than the recommendation but due to money that all I could afford. Some of my brassicas have turned a little purple and yellow. Is this from inadequate pH? I guess the lime won't really kick in until this spring. I plan on getting another test and re liming.

Ground burnt limestone will work much faster, and in all cases lime is applied in tons per acres, the minimum is usually a ton and in some cases 2 tons to the acre. You can also use hydrated lime which doesnt require as much but not reccomended for Ag. thats the kind that is used for mortar.. You can buy ground at Walmarts for $1.40 a bag, but it has to be applied with a drop spreader, not a spinner spreader..

People tend to get to hung up over the concept of soil PH. Most areas have soil that will grow most of the "plot" foods that we want to put in. Checking your PH gives you an idea of your "overall' soil characteristics. You can raise your PH by adding lime, or lower PH by adding sulfur. Ph(without getting scientific), basically is the # given to the balance of positive/negative ions in the soil. This # can effect the overall quality and growth of whatever your planting. Your soil Ph can be high or low, and you still can grow your crop. In an ideal world, your soil ph would match your plant requirements. Unless your PH is below 5.5 or above 8.0, your plants should do OK. Yes, it's nice to keep things in balance, but this is reality and nothing is perfect. Taz

Wished I had said that, Taz. Well put, and it may rest some worried minds. Don't fret, Plant.

Russ

Dont overlook it too much , you must know that you are in the range, especially planting legumes or corn.

RonM, I agree. My experiences have shown me that pH is probably the most important thing when it comes to getting optimum growth. My crappy planting habits caused me frustration in the past. No More. I do it by the book.

Low pH creates a nutrient uptake problem for the plants which slows growth. This can lead to drought damage because roots are not established heading into summer. It also allows grass and weeds to get entrenched. That just adds more costs trying to eliminate the competition.

1. Do the soil test.

2. Add the lime.

3. Incorporate the lime by discing throughly for quicker reaction.

4. Use good quality seed and plant correctly. Depth is critical with small seeds.

5. Pray for rain.

You've done all you can do.

SB