Food plot preparations
#1
Got a new place in the mountains & am planning on putting in some food plots next year. I assume this is the time to take a soil sample & send it to a lab for analysis, correct? For food plots, do you recommend annuals (die off every year) or perennials (normally last 3-5 years before needing to replant)? Other than the obvious that a perennial plot is less maintenance each year, what are the benefits to an annual plot?
#2
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 2,731
Likes: 0
soil test NOW is OK< IF you plan to do something about it NOW<
meaning IF you do a soil test now and it says you need 2 tons of lime per acres to get ph up to a 6-6.5
then YUP< NOW is teh time to ADD lime, turn soil over too if you can and mix it in and START the process of the ph to actually start to change
as adding lime to soil takes LONG time for the lime to actually work
its not like you add it and BOOM, PH is fixed, DOESN"T work that way
Only way lime works is, every partial of soil has to touch a partial of lime for the lime to start to change its Ph
fertilizer is a much faster change and why you DON"T add it till your about to plant, so you DON"T waste it.
doing a soil test NOW< and then mixing in lime(if not still best to add lime NOW< you will, get seepage of it into the soil over the winter and spring to HELP speed it to working to change the plot sites OH, just works better is mixed in!)
many folks will top dress GOOD food plots this way as a way to maintain a PH level in them
using snow ad rains to leach lime into the top /surface of there plot NOT requiring them to turn things over in a existing plot , so you don't damage things in spring time, winter time many things go dormant, so driving over them is less stressful to the plants
IF again your NOT going to do anything to the site, just wait till spring time to do it, conditions can change from winter to spring(rains/ snow, leaves breaking down, and so on, can add more acid to soils)
BUT a soil test can give you a idea what your in for and help maybe plan a budget, but I'd still do a second soil test come sprint time, 10 bucks a test, cheap deal to offer yourself the best chance at a good take, cheaper, MUCH cheaper to do ONE food plot right than to do it half a$$'d twice!
meaning IF you do a soil test now and it says you need 2 tons of lime per acres to get ph up to a 6-6.5
then YUP< NOW is teh time to ADD lime, turn soil over too if you can and mix it in and START the process of the ph to actually start to change
as adding lime to soil takes LONG time for the lime to actually work
its not like you add it and BOOM, PH is fixed, DOESN"T work that way
Only way lime works is, every partial of soil has to touch a partial of lime for the lime to start to change its Ph
fertilizer is a much faster change and why you DON"T add it till your about to plant, so you DON"T waste it.
doing a soil test NOW< and then mixing in lime(if not still best to add lime NOW< you will, get seepage of it into the soil over the winter and spring to HELP speed it to working to change the plot sites OH, just works better is mixed in!)
many folks will top dress GOOD food plots this way as a way to maintain a PH level in them
using snow ad rains to leach lime into the top /surface of there plot NOT requiring them to turn things over in a existing plot , so you don't damage things in spring time, winter time many things go dormant, so driving over them is less stressful to the plants
IF again your NOT going to do anything to the site, just wait till spring time to do it, conditions can change from winter to spring(rains/ snow, leaves breaking down, and so on, can add more acid to soils)
BUT a soil test can give you a idea what your in for and help maybe plan a budget, but I'd still do a second soil test come sprint time, 10 bucks a test, cheap deal to offer yourself the best chance at a good take, cheaper, MUCH cheaper to do ONE food plot right than to do it half a$$'d twice!
#3
Spike
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
From: Southern piedmont of Virginia
soil test NOW is OK< IF you plan to do something about it NOW<
meaning IF you do a soil test now and it says you need 2 tons of lime per acres to get ph up to a 6-6.5
then YUP< NOW is teh time to ADD lime, turn soil over too if you can and mix it in and START the process of the ph to actually start to change
as adding lime to soil takes LONG time for the lime to actually work
its not like you add it and BOOM, PH is fixed, DOESN"T work that way
Only way lime works is, every partial of soil has to touch a partial of lime for the lime to start to change its Ph
fertilizer is a much faster change and why you DON"T add it till your about to plant, so you DON"T waste it.
doing a soil test NOW< and then mixing in lime(if not still best to add lime NOW< you will, get seepage of it into the soil over the winter and spring to HELP speed it to working to change the plot sites OH, just works better is mixed in!)
many folks will top dress GOOD food plots this way as a way to maintain a PH level in them
using snow ad rains to leach lime into the top /surface of there plot NOT requiring them to turn things over in a existing plot , so you don't damage things in spring time, winter time many things go dormant, so driving over them is less stressful to the plants
IF again your NOT going to do anything to the site, just wait till spring time to do it, conditions can change from winter to spring(rains/ snow, leaves breaking down, and so on, can add more acid to soils)
BUT a soil test can give you a idea what your in for and help maybe plan a budget, but I'd still do a second soil test come sprint time, 10 bucks a test, cheap deal to offer yourself the best chance at a good take, cheaper, MUCH cheaper to do ONE food plot right than to do it half a$$'d twice!
meaning IF you do a soil test now and it says you need 2 tons of lime per acres to get ph up to a 6-6.5
then YUP< NOW is teh time to ADD lime, turn soil over too if you can and mix it in and START the process of the ph to actually start to change
as adding lime to soil takes LONG time for the lime to actually work
its not like you add it and BOOM, PH is fixed, DOESN"T work that way
Only way lime works is, every partial of soil has to touch a partial of lime for the lime to start to change its Ph
fertilizer is a much faster change and why you DON"T add it till your about to plant, so you DON"T waste it.
doing a soil test NOW< and then mixing in lime(if not still best to add lime NOW< you will, get seepage of it into the soil over the winter and spring to HELP speed it to working to change the plot sites OH, just works better is mixed in!)
many folks will top dress GOOD food plots this way as a way to maintain a PH level in them
using snow ad rains to leach lime into the top /surface of there plot NOT requiring them to turn things over in a existing plot , so you don't damage things in spring time, winter time many things go dormant, so driving over them is less stressful to the plants
IF again your NOT going to do anything to the site, just wait till spring time to do it, conditions can change from winter to spring(rains/ snow, leaves breaking down, and so on, can add more acid to soils)
BUT a soil test can give you a idea what your in for and help maybe plan a budget, but I'd still do a second soil test come sprint time, 10 bucks a test, cheap deal to offer yourself the best chance at a good take, cheaper, MUCH cheaper to do ONE food plot right than to do it half a$$'d twice!



