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Wood blind question.

Old 12-12-2019, 05:20 PM
  #11  
Nontypical Buck
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
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I have used them a few times over the yrs, but for me to use one, it has to be SUPER cold and even then, you can have issues with the propane flowing well, as it will freeze too!
many times you really need to shake the can's really good to get them to ignite and or stay flowing!
seem to work better if kept upside down, and then flipped before using!

you also have to make sure the blind is venting well enough to safely use them in side, windows be open good for cross flow!
and another thing to think about is NOISE< or scent!
they can make a bunch of noise IMO
BUT when your in cold enough tempos I doubt you care about the noises
the good part about a well insulated blind, is you DON"T have to run a heater non stop

and I will ad this too, I have used real small propane heaters heaters in pop up blinds and had deer within feet of me, but as in life, NOT all deer react the same to things, some will be more curious, some just won;t seem to care and well, some will AVOID a area they smell something new or strange!
BUT if the cold gets too much and you go home, or cannot sit still, doesn't matter as you won't get a deer while at home, so longer your out there, even with draw backs, the better your odds are IMO!


just turn on, warm things, and shut off
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Old 12-12-2019, 05:41 PM
  #12  
Typical Buck
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Indiana
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The last several years where I am at it has not gotten cold enough to need one but some years we have temps at zero or below during the season.
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Old 12-13-2019, 05:58 AM
  #13  
Spike
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: West Virginia
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Never heard of propane freezing. If they can smell it, they can smell you so it wouldn't matter either way. I've never had a problem. It only seems noisy because you are in an enclosure hovering right over top of it. They can't hear it a few feet away, especially if it's closed up good and insulated. The heaters are supposed to have an automatic shutoff when oxygen levels get low but never trust them and take a knap while it's running. It was 22 degrees the last time I got in the blind and fired up the heater. It took about 10 minutes to get it to 68 with just a single burner cheapo from Walmart.
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Old 12-13-2019, 11:00 AM
  #14  
Fork Horn
 
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Join Date: Oct 2015
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We use 4x4 legs for our box blinds. Build a box frame out of 2x8's, install plywood floor, and then run braces under the plywood attached to the 2x8's. Two braces are placed evenly off a 3rd center brace. We then insert 4x4's into the inside corners of the box and attach with lag bolts, washers, and lock nuts.

We used to complete stand enclosure with luan walls, plywood roof topped with corrugated metal panels, cut windows and door, use hinges to hang cut out door, and paint. We have about 5 of these installed in our hunting lease with bases that range from 4 to 6' tall off the ground. We've only had one that tilted from sinking. We anchor using steel cable and turn buckle.

We built the last 3 blinds with Baronnett Big Mike hunting blind's on top instead of the luan enclosures. The tent blind's are 80" tall and their base is 59" square. Makes for a much quicker and easier build. We take the tent blind down at end of season and store until next year. They've proved durable and should last several + years. We'll just replace the tents if they get damaged or wear out.
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