smokepole70

I understand what happened and I am glad you didn't get fatally wounded. I had two different occasions when one of my feet came through. The flooring got rotten in a box stand, 14 ft high.

MZS

This is why I say it is a good idea to have back-up fasteners and supports. Two (or 3) galvanized nails in the rung on each side would not allow this to happen. I am not too keen on screws or other brittle fasteners like pole barn spikes unless they are backed up by something else - they tend to shear off, especially after a few years. I once had a ladder rung fastened with pole barn spikes shear off but luckily I was not too high up.

Wooden stands have their drawbacks, but also, they can be built larger to allow hunter movement. For some, sitting in one place for hours can be torture due to back problems, etc.

SecondChance

Great pics Docd!!! Nice buck at the end as well!!!!!

johnnyo

Where in Ontario are you? I either use cedar or ironwood. Ironwood works great for ladders. Long straight trees, that are small in dia. Its very hard once dry, but you can work with it green. Predrill holes and use galvanized spikes.

Its similar to red oak, strong and will weather well.

White cedar works great for tree stand posts/structure. its also weathers well.

smokepole70

Come to think about it when I was a young teen going hunting I used to see some really horribly built treestands that seemed they were hanging on a thread. Example, a platform was built between 3 oaks with half it's 2 x 6's missing! Don't get me wrong you can build some great stands between a group of oaks but then again that is digging unneccesary spikes in a tree. Ladderstands, tree climber's, box stands have come along way it seems over the years.

BIG TUNA

The platforms are no problem. Every platform that I have built are still in great and safe condition. For the main supports of the platform, I drill through the trees and bolt on treated 4x4, 2x6 or better using 5/8" all-thread rod. Drill through, run the rod, crank the nuts, saw off excess, and then next hole. Lay the floor then the rails.

The Iron wood in Bancroft is way too thin for the 12 foot or higher platforms.

Thanks for the tips everyone. I think the 3 main things that I will do different for the ladders is:
1- Take the bark off the wood.
2- Use extra wood or something so that the ladder does not sit directly on the ground. Will add barrier between ladder and ground to reduce moisture absorption.
3A- Add in an angled cross brace to support the middle of the ladder.
-or-
3B- Stand the ladder almost vertical and strap it in the off seasons (Dec to Sept). Then pull it out at a good, safe, comfortable angle during the usable/needed months (Oct & Nov).

May have to incorporate some post-season work on top of the prime season hunt, pre-season work and off season dreaming.

nodog

Just because they split doesn't make them *too* weak, just drying out. A 3-4" oak runner would be very tough to break for a long time. Hickory would be good. WNY gave the very best, locust if you can find it. I've seen post that have been in the ground for 100 years not rotted out.

What about putting a kicker half way up. You could fasten them to the tree as they pass by on their way to the ground Ladder goes up, kicker comes off the back half way up, of the stringers at an angle on either side of the tree. If that doesn't stiffen up that ladder beyond anything you"d ever need I don't know what would short of concrete steps. If that doesn'r suit you put more kickers on. Do it right and let the extend past the stringers and you can attach a hand rail. The only worry I could see is the fastenerns rotting away.

Gunplummer

I use a ladder stand now, but only expect it to last 2-3 years. We had a lot of trees go down in a freak early snow storm and I used birch and cherry. It won't last long but it was a new spot and I don't care. I usually use pressure treated. 2x6 legs, 2x4's for the steps and platform, 2 pieces of all-thread to snug it to a tree. (Nylon rope if State land) I have pre-drilled and used bolts and lag bolts to assemble after carrying it in in pieces. Some are still very good after 10 years.

nitro27

I always extend the steps/rungs at least two inches beyond the rail on each side to prevent splitting when screwing or nailing steps to uprights. This helps prevent splitting and the rungs failing.

DocD

The last few year I have been putting up a good many of these "Ladder Stands" they can be purchased very reasonable during the off season, (get the double wide if you can) they work well, jmop Doc





A nice double wide I picked up for a song (at one of the building centers).


a little "Camo" & Wala!!!!!


Doc