Need an answer about my bow please!
10-20-2011, 07:57 AM
#1
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: clermont fl
Posts: 38
Need an answer about my bow please!
Im about to get a bow my drawlenght is 28 29 and id like to draw about 50 pounds my granddad say to get a youth bow but theres no youth bows that have my draw lenght so i found a bow its my draw lenght but the weight is 40 to 60 and he said for the bow to shoot right i need it a 60 and i cant pull that much cause ill be in the woods in two weeks how much is it gonna throw the arrow off if i put the 40 to 60 bow and set it a 50.
10-20-2011, 08:09 AM
#2
Fork Horn
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: central Wisconsin
Posts: 479
Just for background I'm 5'11" and shot 28" draw so buy a bow that you can use for years. They make them with adjustable draw length and weight. Don't pull more weight then you can handle. I see too many hunters on TV that are shooting way too much lbs. 50 lbs. out of a compound bow is far faster then any of the old 75 lb. recurves could do so will easily kill a deer with the right arrows. You should be able to extend your bow arm toward the target and pull the string to your anchor point using your BACK muscles. You shoot a bow properly by using back muscles not arm muscles. (I was 2 time Wisconsin state champion and took 17th place at the national tournament shooting against the best in the country).
And just set the bow at the weight you want. Get a target set up so you can kneel and shoot squarely (vertical and horizontal) into it at 10 feet back. Hang some freezer wrap or newspaper so that it's six feet in front of you. Shoot through the paper into the target and adjust your nock and arrow rest until you get a round hole (no tear) through the paper. Start with your nock about 1/2" above center. If you get the round hole through paper your bow is shooting whatever arrows you use perfectly.
And just set the bow at the weight you want. Get a target set up so you can kneel and shoot squarely (vertical and horizontal) into it at 10 feet back. Hang some freezer wrap or newspaper so that it's six feet in front of you. Shoot through the paper into the target and adjust your nock and arrow rest until you get a round hole (no tear) through the paper. Start with your nock about 1/2" above center. If you get the round hole through paper your bow is shooting whatever arrows you use perfectly.
Last edited by warbirdlover; 10-20-2011 at 08:16 AM.
10-20-2011, 08:21 AM
#3
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: central and east texas
Posts: 4,894
50 lbs will work...i do agree it is a youth bow..
once yer body knows how to pull a bow, you will be able to excel in weight dramatically...
get some magnus snuffers..fixed blade broad heads...6 in a box fer $36..use 3 to practice, and 3 to hunt, they will last forever....sharpen by laying flat on wet sand paper.(of course ya have slide it back in forth).like new again..
how old are ya and have ya drawn a bow yet?
it was sounding like ya never hunted befor...i would suggest taking this year off and just practicing...cause low and behold ya come on here talkin bout how ya made a bad shot on the last hour of the last day and left a wounded deer in the woods and had ta go home...dont be one of those guys.
once yer body knows how to pull a bow, you will be able to excel in weight dramatically...
get some magnus snuffers..fixed blade broad heads...6 in a box fer $36..use 3 to practice, and 3 to hunt, they will last forever....sharpen by laying flat on wet sand paper.(of course ya have slide it back in forth).like new again..
how old are ya and have ya drawn a bow yet?
it was sounding like ya never hunted befor...i would suggest taking this year off and just practicing...cause low and behold ya come on here talkin bout how ya made a bad shot on the last hour of the last day and left a wounded deer in the woods and had ta go home...dont be one of those guys.
10-20-2011, 08:47 AM
#4
Typical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: NY: NYC to Watertown
Posts: 897
as 1/2 asked,
how old are you and have experience with other bows?
as eager as 1 is to get in the field,
2 weeks is not enough time to practice with a bow and be good enough to ethically take a deer,
higher poundage has its advantages , especially at longer distances,
but there is also advantages to lower poundage,
Smoother draws, more practice before you get shaky, can hold the bow at full draw on the target longer
my bow is 60-70#
have it set at 60#, and prefer my brothers 55# bow.
i can draw smoothly at 70#, without reaching for the sky
but when practicing get shaky very quickly, after just a few rounds,
and at 70# there are times where even that first draw seems tight,
and can lose the draw and have to reset, wouldnt want to risk having that happen in the field
usually because for whatever reason, at that specific moment muscles to tight,
how old are you and have experience with other bows?
as eager as 1 is to get in the field,
2 weeks is not enough time to practice with a bow and be good enough to ethically take a deer,
higher poundage has its advantages , especially at longer distances,
but there is also advantages to lower poundage,
Smoother draws, more practice before you get shaky, can hold the bow at full draw on the target longer
my bow is 60-70#
have it set at 60#, and prefer my brothers 55# bow.
i can draw smoothly at 70#, without reaching for the sky
but when practicing get shaky very quickly, after just a few rounds,
and at 70# there are times where even that first draw seems tight,
and can lose the draw and have to reset, wouldnt want to risk having that happen in the field
usually because for whatever reason, at that specific moment muscles to tight,
10-20-2011, 08:59 AM
#5
Typical Buck
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 590
Let me give clear and concise answers to the questions you actually asked:
1. If you have found an adult bow that is adjustable down to 50 lbs, you do not need a youth bow.
2. A bow that is adjustable between 40 and 60 lbs should shoot right at 50 lbs. You may need to take it to an archery shop to have it tuned.
3. You do not need 60 lb draw weight to kill a deer. 50 lbs should be fine. Shot placement is the most important thing.
However, I will say that if you plan to be hunting in two weeks with a bow that you don't even own yet, you need to get the bow soon and start practicing A LOT between now and then.
1. If you have found an adult bow that is adjustable down to 50 lbs, you do not need a youth bow.
2. A bow that is adjustable between 40 and 60 lbs should shoot right at 50 lbs. You may need to take it to an archery shop to have it tuned.
3. You do not need 60 lb draw weight to kill a deer. 50 lbs should be fine. Shot placement is the most important thing.
However, I will say that if you plan to be hunting in two weeks with a bow that you don't even own yet, you need to get the bow soon and start practicing A LOT between now and then.
10-20-2011, 11:56 AM
#7
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: central and east texas
Posts: 4,894
Originally Posted by Stonewall308;3863998
[B
[B
Let me give clear and concise answers to the questions you actually asked
[/B]
1. If you have found an adult bow that is adjustable down to 50 lbs, you do not need a youth bow.
2. A bow that is adjustable between 40 and 60 lbs should shoot right at 50 lbs. You may need to take it to an archery shop to have it tuned.
3. You do not need 60 lb draw weight to kill a deer. 50 lbs should be fine. Shot placement is the most important thing.
However, I will say that if you plan to be hunting in two weeks with a bow that you don't even own yet, you need to get the bow soon and start practicing A LOT between now and then.
[/B]
1. If you have found an adult bow that is adjustable down to 50 lbs, you do not need a youth bow.
2. A bow that is adjustable between 40 and 60 lbs should shoot right at 50 lbs. You may need to take it to an archery shop to have it tuned.
3. You do not need 60 lb draw weight to kill a deer. 50 lbs should be fine. Shot placement is the most important thing.
However, I will say that if you plan to be hunting in two weeks with a bow that you don't even own yet, you need to get the bow soon and start practicing A LOT between now and then.
which the answer will be: zero...cause after you sight the bow in at 50# .it should be on time at 50#..
if the bow was already sighted in at 60, and ya turn it down to what you believe to be 50.and you dont adjust any of the sights...you might find that you are hitting a lil low on yer 30 yard pin or something?
Last edited by halfbakedi420; 10-21-2011 at 06:37 AM.
10-21-2011, 03:38 AM
#8
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,445
Arrow stiffness (spine) needs to be matched to the draw weight and draw length of the bow, and to a lesser extent point weight. The higher the draw weight, the stiffer the arrow needs to be (same is true for draw length). A given arrow spine rating may work OK with a range of draw weights, say like 50 to 55 lbs, 55 to 60 lbs, etc.
If the bow is set at 50, the arrow spine needs to be acceptable for the draw weight at that draw length, with the point wieght being used.
If a beginning shooter can handle 50 lb draw, and has a bow that is adjustable to 60 lb, it would be a good idea to buy arrows with a spine that is acceptable for 50 to 55 or even 50 to 60 lb draw weight if possible, so he can crank the bow up a bit after a few weeks practice.
Assuming all is fine at 50 lb, the effect seen by cranking the bow up will be a somewhat flatter trajectory (slide sight pins down to compensate), and likely some slight change in left to right impact. These are to be expected and can be corrected by adjusting sights.
If the bow is set at 50, the arrow spine needs to be acceptable for the draw weight at that draw length, with the point wieght being used.
If a beginning shooter can handle 50 lb draw, and has a bow that is adjustable to 60 lb, it would be a good idea to buy arrows with a spine that is acceptable for 50 to 55 or even 50 to 60 lb draw weight if possible, so he can crank the bow up a bit after a few weeks practice.
Assuming all is fine at 50 lb, the effect seen by cranking the bow up will be a somewhat flatter trajectory (slide sight pins down to compensate), and likely some slight change in left to right impact. These are to be expected and can be corrected by adjusting sights.
10-21-2011, 06:38 AM
#9
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: central and east texas
Posts: 4,894
Arrow stiffness (spine) needs to be matched to the draw weight and draw length of the bow, and to a lesser extent point weight. The higher the draw weight, the stiffer the arrow needs to be (same is true for draw length). A given arrow spine rating may work OK with a range of draw weights, say like 50 to 55 lbs, 55 to 60 lbs, etc.
If the bow is set at 50, the arrow spine needs to be acceptable for the draw weight at that draw length, with the point wieght being used.
If a beginning shooter can handle 50 lb draw, and has a bow that is adjustable to 60 lb, it would be a good idea to buy arrows with a spine that is acceptable for 50 to 55 or even 50 to 60 lb draw weight if possible, so he can crank the bow up a bit after a few weeks practice.
Assuming all is fine at 50 lb, the effect seen by cranking the bow up will be a somewhat flatter trajectory (slide sight pins down to compensate), and likely some slight change in left to right impact. These are to be expected and can be corrected by adjusting sights.
If the bow is set at 50, the arrow spine needs to be acceptable for the draw weight at that draw length, with the point wieght being used.
If a beginning shooter can handle 50 lb draw, and has a bow that is adjustable to 60 lb, it would be a good idea to buy arrows with a spine that is acceptable for 50 to 55 or even 50 to 60 lb draw weight if possible, so he can crank the bow up a bit after a few weeks practice.
Assuming all is fine at 50 lb, the effect seen by cranking the bow up will be a somewhat flatter trajectory (slide sight pins down to compensate), and likely some slight change in left to right impact. These are to be expected and can be corrected by adjusting sights.
