tealboy

I have a decent buck, not a monster, but I might get a shoulder mount. I have talked to three taxidermists and the prices are $200, $225 and $300. The guy who is $300 has a good reputation around town and comes with a number of referrals. The $225 guy has been doing it for 30 years, since he was 15 but I don't know his work. Seems like a decent guy. The $200 I don't know but the meat processor recommends him.

Point is, I am too new at this to know what to look for in specimens on his wall and I don't know what questions to ask. Obviously the $200 is more appealing than $300, so if i can learn from you as to what questions to ask and what to look for in sample mounts, I can pick the best combo of price/quality.

thank you.

kshunter

Check some of their mounts from 10 years ago, and see if they still look good. Some mounts that aren't done quite right could have partly drumbed out ears, split lips, shedding from improper tan, etc, when they are 10 years old. Just look at other mounts and take references from people. Good luck.
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Dave590

There are several taxidermists on this board who can most likely give you the very "specific" details in what to look for when you get there as far as "current projects" go...I can only offer these suggestions.

Put the "price" thing out of your mind.

Go meet the guy in his shop...If he's a nice, likable guy, and his "work" looks good...Then it's a good bet you will like what you end up with when he's done.

Go meet the guy in his shop...If you don't like him, and he has no "work" to show you...Then it's a good bet you won't be happy with ANYTHING he does.

And last, but certainly not least...And you mentioned it in your original post...Referances. If one of your friends is happy with his work...Then chances are, you will be too.

Indiana Dude

Go with what your buddies tell you. I didnt and Im paying for it now.
I shot a decent buck in december of 2001, picked up a business card
at the check in station, called the guy and met with him seemed like a
good guy. I was supposed to get my mount back in april of 2002 and
I am still waiting. The last time I talked to him was in june and
he said he was real busy and running behind, O.K., no big deal, I gave
him a couple more months and started calling again, now he wont return my
calls. I just heard from another guy that the taxidermist hasnt
ever finished a mount in under a year. Im starting to wonder if I will
ever get it. Makes me madder than hell just thinkin bout it.
Time to go pay him a visit.
Good luck.

Jimmy S

tealboy..kshunter makes a good point. To me, my decision would rest with references. Maybe the folks at your local gun club or sporting store can offer some help. We have had a few deer mounted and have found that you get what you pay for, not that it's always the case. The one commom denominator is that these taxidermist have been around for a long time. They don't necessarily have to be oldtimers, but they should all have a good track record. Good Luck on this, and I sure hope whoever you decide on, does one hell of a job! Oh yea, Congrats on your deer.....Jimmy S

boltman

The number one thing is look at several examples of their work and make sure you'd be happy if it was hanging on your wall. Forget about the price difference, you won't even think about the extra $100 after you walk out of the shop. Higher price doesn't mean better quality, the $200 guy could be better than the $300 guy. The best taxidermist I know of gets $250 and he does amazing work, guys come from all over the state to get him to mount their bucks. He mounted the state record non-typical and every year you see several of his mounts in North American Whitetail magazine. A couple of other taxidermists I know of get $350 and their work isn't nearly as good. Often times the younger taxidermists do better work than the old timers. Taxidermy techniques have improved dramatically over the last decade, the old timers often don't keep up with the times and their quality suffers from it. Stay away from the guys that do it as a part-time job, they could be good but usually they don't do work as good as the professionals. Last thing, don't be afraid to ask around amongst the local gun and sporting goods shops, if you're in an area where deer hunting is big then you'll probably see a consensus of who's the best taxidermist in the area.

Striper Phil

All the above is good.

1. Get references
2. Ask one taxidermist about the other guy you may get some good info here. Someone who badmouths all the other guys I would be wary of.
3. Ask if he sends the hide out to a tanner He should do this
4. There is a big difference in the amount of stiches used in the mouth. Anyone know the numbers?
5. Get a firm finish date Hemming and hawing here is BAD.

One Shot One Kill Striper Phil

Just got my 10 point back Dec 18 from a Nov 02 Kill I think that shows how fast it can be done.

WV Hunter

All goood points...Boltman, right on, price sometimes doesn't indicate quality.
But, I've found, as with most things in life, you get what you pay for. DON'T GO CHEAP, just because it will save you some $. Do your homework. You want your trophy to look great, and keep on looking that way for a long time.
Word of mouth reputation is usually best. Personally, when I got my first mount done a few years ago, I called around...and went and met them, and checked out their work. Make sure to look at work they are doing...not what's in the display room. Any decent taxidermist can make his display mounts look good...what you want to see is how the average mount looks when finished, not a mount he did for a show.

Also, a good taxidermist will give you an idea of when it will be done, and more often then not....it will be about a year. The later in the season you bring the kill in, the longer it will probably take. There are quite a few in front of you. If they are any good, they will have alot of work, and it just takes time to get it done. I'd beware of any taxidermist that gives you a short turn around time.
JMHO.

cyclone

Ok, you got some good advice here and you got some not so good.

I'm retired but still do some taxidermy work just to keep in the groove. I used to compete and have reached the status of being a national master.

#1. Toss the price thing totally. The cheapest isn't a good choice and the most expensive isn't necessarily the best. Look at their work. Pick one you like. Ask for references from him and get references on your own.

#2. Toss the reference from the processor. He's recommending this guy for a reason. Probably getting a kickback.

#3. Just because a taxidermist is "full time" doesn't mean that he/she is the greatest. I know many "part timers" that are top notch.

#4 Nobody that I know stitches the lips anymore, that's archiac.

#5 A hide sent to the tannery isn't always the best. In fact the top competing taxidermists all do their own tanning.

What to look for: Neatness, messy showroom = messy shop = messy work.
Look at the mounts and see which one looks most natural to you. Don't be afraid to take in pics of live deer and compare, up close. Look at the eyes, ears, nose, lips...Do the colors look natural? Does the seam on the back of the neck show? Are the ears nice and thin like natural or are they thick and or drumming?(separated from the form) Don't be afraid to ask the taxidermist to see his reference pics. Good ones have them and will show them to you, bad one think they "know" what a deer looks like.

What to ask and answers to expect:
1. How do you preserve? "Dry Preserve" - run away. "Tan myself" - OK. "Professional tannery" - OK.
2. Can I see and read over one of your contracts? "No I don't use them" - run away. "Yes, here is one look it over." - good choice.
3. HOW DO YOU BUGPROOF? "The tan takes care of it" - run away, "Protex" - good choice, "I never bother, Some of my mounts are 10 years old and still look good" - run away. "Moth balls" - run away.
4. What kind of hide paste do you use? "None"- run away, "Epoxy based" - good choice "Latex or water based" - good choice. "Latex Caulk It's cheaper" - run away..

5. What's your turn around time and is it in the contract? "I can't give a positive date" - run., "1 year" - acceptable, "2 years" - acceptable if you are willing to wait and he has enough work to warrant this. "6 weeks" -run. "6 months" - Wow that's fast, you must have a lot of help.

6. Do you compete or belong to any taxidermists associations. "Yes"- a plus it shows they're serious about their work. "No, I don't have time" - not necessarily bad, but how do they keep up on all the latest innovations. "No, it's all a bunch of BS" - not a good choice.

My beef used to be with the guys that called and were looking for the cheapest price. "Keep looking" I'd say, "You ain't gonna find it here." They spend thousands of dollars on guns, equipment, vehicles, dogs, clothes, travel etc. and then look for the cheapest taxidermist they can find...The one thing that will hold true here is that if you look for the cheapest - you will get what you pay for.

~Will Hunt For Food~

DamBigBuck

Cyclone gave some great advise... though I'm not totally convinced of the bugproofing question. The only way to totally bugproof a mount is to stick it under glass and keep it there.

I've always felt that a good tan (NOT dry preserve) would be enough AS LONG AS the customer takes care of their mount ... that is, they keep it in a controlled climate (like the main living area of your house) and keep it dusted, then it would be fine for years. If the mount is thrown into an attic, garage, shed, etc., it's only a matter of time before the bugs & moths get it (bugproofed or not). I think Protex is a good product, but it's not a miracle worker either.

Edited by - dambigbuck on 01/16/2003 12:26:38