Chokes
10-28-2011, 11:33 AM
#1
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 2
Chokes
Ok, this one is going to make me sound like a complete ignoramous, but I've not paid a bit of attention to chokes since I got my first gun 23 years ago. I'm now hunting w/ a hand-me-down Super Blackeagle - shooting ducks (mostly pintal and teal - and the occasionally teal that magically turns into a spoonie when it hits the water
) I have no idea what choke is in it, although I know it is changeable.
Shooting 3" heavy steel, what is the preferred choke for this kind of hunting? I really should know this and am too ashamed to ask my hunting buddy that question...
) I have no idea what choke is in it, although I know it is changeable.Shooting 3" heavy steel, what is the preferred choke for this kind of hunting? I really should know this and am too ashamed to ask my hunting buddy that question...
10-28-2011, 06:49 PM
#2
Fork Horn
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 115
You would want to shoot either an Improved Cylinder or
Modified tube. I would recommend investing in a speciality
tube like the Waterfowl Combo Pack From Hevi Shot. You
get both an Extended and Mid Range tube. I also shoot a
SBE I.
Modified tube. I would recommend investing in a speciality
tube like the Waterfowl Combo Pack From Hevi Shot. You
get both an Extended and Mid Range tube. I also shoot a
SBE I.
10-28-2011, 09:01 PM
#3
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: West NE
Posts: 1,455
Wow.. I wouldn't have asked my buddy either.
The search function could've helped you, but oh well..
Square one: the 3 most common chokes are Improved cylinder, modified, and full. In that order, from least constriction, to most.
Take the current one out and see what it is (they unscrew...get a choke tube wrench). They're marked on their side. A guy ought to have at least an improved cylinder and modified to cover duck hunting. Once you have that taken care of, visit a printing store and get some big sheets of paper, about 4'x4' and draw a 30" circle on them. Shoot at the circle at different ranges with different shells and choke tubes, and count the hits in the circle. Take notes on each combination. Use the combination that gives a good looking pattern that's not too tight or spread out for the distance you're planning on shooting. Also take note of the densest part of the pattern. It might not be in the middle.
Don't forget,
Use anti-seize lubricant on your choke tube's threads. They can/will get stuck, or be a pain to remove the next time if you don't.
FWIW, I pretty much always use a modified on ducks even with close shots, and usually size 3 steel.
The search function could've helped you, but oh well..
Square one: the 3 most common chokes are Improved cylinder, modified, and full. In that order, from least constriction, to most.
Take the current one out and see what it is (they unscrew...get a choke tube wrench). They're marked on their side. A guy ought to have at least an improved cylinder and modified to cover duck hunting. Once you have that taken care of, visit a printing store and get some big sheets of paper, about 4'x4' and draw a 30" circle on them. Shoot at the circle at different ranges with different shells and choke tubes, and count the hits in the circle. Take notes on each combination. Use the combination that gives a good looking pattern that's not too tight or spread out for the distance you're planning on shooting. Also take note of the densest part of the pattern. It might not be in the middle.
Don't forget,
Use anti-seize lubricant on your choke tube's threads. They can/will get stuck, or be a pain to remove the next time if you don't.
FWIW, I pretty much always use a modified on ducks even with close shots, and usually size 3 steel.
10-30-2011, 02:05 PM
#4
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,834
I myself prefer the Briley extended Modified or ext. Improved Modified for all of my waterfowl shooting. I shoot Kent Fasteel and am now going almost exclusively Hevi-Metal in 3" 2's and BB's for ducks and 3"BB's and 3-1/2" B's for geese. I shoot the BB's solely in the ext. Modified tube.
The huge reason I really like the extended tubes are that if you are not a real cleaning fanatic, they can get gunked/watered in and you will have a nightmare getting them out with a flush fitting tube. An extended tube gets a tad sticky to remove, just put an old leather belt around it and use a slip jaw pliers on it. Have somehold the weapon, after both of you visually inspect the weapon to ensure it is clean and clear of any ammo and none in the immediate area, twist out the sticky/stuck tube. Give it a shot of PB Blaster and let sit for awhile and it will come out. Make sure you clean the threads in the beginning of season well and you should never have to deal with this as I have for several people and clients. And as Big Z stated, anti-seize goes a long way. Use it each time you take a tube out and replace it and you are good to go.
The huge reason I really like the extended tubes are that if you are not a real cleaning fanatic, they can get gunked/watered in and you will have a nightmare getting them out with a flush fitting tube. An extended tube gets a tad sticky to remove, just put an old leather belt around it and use a slip jaw pliers on it. Have somehold the weapon, after both of you visually inspect the weapon to ensure it is clean and clear of any ammo and none in the immediate area, twist out the sticky/stuck tube. Give it a shot of PB Blaster and let sit for awhile and it will come out. Make sure you clean the threads in the beginning of season well and you should never have to deal with this as I have for several people and clients. And as Big Z stated, anti-seize goes a long way. Use it each time you take a tube out and replace it and you are good to go.
Last edited by SecondChance; 10-30-2011 at 02:07 PM.
10-31-2011, 02:49 PM
#5
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Waipahu HI USA
Posts: 2,915
Here's a few tips to keep in mind when making a choke selection.
-Steel shot patterns tighter than lead in most standard chokes. If you're shooting steel out of choke that came with the gun, steel will pattern like one constriction smaller than the tube is marked. C/IC = M, M = F*
-Do not shoot steel shot out of a choke marked Full (or tighter)
A friend of a friend sky busted on some snows with a turkey choke in his Mossy 835...I heard it described as a catastrophic bulging event.
-When shooting heavier-than-lead loads out of specially made chokes the traditional steel-lead advice changes.
*It's not an exact conversion, but helpful to understand.
-Steel shot patterns tighter than lead in most standard chokes. If you're shooting steel out of choke that came with the gun, steel will pattern like one constriction smaller than the tube is marked. C/IC = M, M = F*
-Do not shoot steel shot out of a choke marked Full (or tighter)
A friend of a friend sky busted on some snows with a turkey choke in his Mossy 835...I heard it described as a catastrophic bulging event.
-When shooting heavier-than-lead loads out of specially made chokes the traditional steel-lead advice changes.
*It's not an exact conversion, but helpful to understand.
